This really was our first foray on our own into the Jemez Mountains (though we did hike Cebolla Canyon earlier in 2014, but Jay had hiked there some years before).
The Drive In
Having done virtually no advance planning, we drove up FR 10 as far as we were comfortable, then parked alongside the road and hiked onward.
The Hike
Paliza Canyon Hike.Jay.2014-08-24
Following our ?instincts?, we remained on FR 10 for a ways, then turned onto a two-track up a valley. Nearing the end of this small valley, we climbed onto the ridge, then began looking for a reasonable route down into the adjoining canyon. The slope didn’t change much, so we descended on a fairly steep route and found ourselves back on a road, later to learn it was FR 10 which we followed to return to the car.
Statistics
Total Distance: 3.92 miles Elevation: start 7,596 ft, maximum 8,099 ft, minimum 7,597 ft Gross gain: 502 ft. Aggregate ascending 773 ft, descending 767 ft Maximum slope: 27% ascending, 40% descending, 6.4% average Duration: 2:52
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
‘Twas a beautiful autumn day in New Mexico, a time when cottonwoods along streams and aspen in the mountains are in their full glory. Recent rains deterred us from heading into the back country where roads may be too much of a challenge for us. But the Valles Caldera National Preserve can be reached on paved roads (NM 4) and we anticipated that the road into the Caldera would be gravel and well used (which proved to be correct). This would be our first visit beyond the Visitors Center, towards the back country of the this magnificent ‘caldera’.
The Drive In
The drive from Albuquerque, through Bernalillo and San Ysidro, and up NM 4 through Jemez Pueblo, Jemez Springs, and on to La Cueva did not disappoint. The cottonwoods particularly the length of the Jemez River/San Diego Canyon were spectacular – vivid golden yellow so bright in the New Mexico sun against the New Mexico blue sky.
Turning off NM 4 into the Preserve, we look out across the Caldera with the Visitors Center off in the distance some two miles away. The gravel road is dry, the views to the left, right and ahead are amazing – so much open meadow five miles ahead of us with a rim of forested mountains all around (some of the forest shows the remains of fires in recent years).
At the Visitors Center we were greeted by Nina, a clearly enthusiastic volunteer who shared information about the Caldera , in particular where filming of the TV series “Longmire” took place. With the permit (free, and they get cell phone numbers as a safety measure), we were cleared to drive on into the Caldera, told to be back by 5:00; the gate is locked at 5:30. (Note: The timing of our visit was most fortuitous: permits to drive beyond the Visitors Center will not be available from Nov 1 through May 15. Visitors may visit and walk throughout the winter; it seems the Caldera is a great place for snowshoeing and cross country skiing.)
The road past the Visitor’s Center takes one west through the southwest corner of the Caldera, towards Redondo Peak, a prominent landmark visible even from Albuquerque. The road turns northeast where it passes by the main ranch buildings, including the ranch house used in the TV series as Longmire’s cabin.
As we continued northeast, a couple of cars in front of us were stopped, a sign that something interesting might be about. Looking carefully ahead we saw a herd of elk heading out of the Caldera towards the forest. Clearly visible was the bull elk at the head of the heard with a couple dozen cows in tow. ‘Twas a beautiful sight. (Way out in the center of the Caldera we could see a large herd of elk as well, tiny specks against the nearly featureless grass meadow that covers the Caldera.)
The Hike
Valles Caldera Hike.Pat.2018-10-26
We continued on about 3 miles or so, where a side road (closed) provided a convenient parking place for a bit of hiking. Strapping on our backpacks, we passed through some open ponderosa forest (about a mile) and into the edge of the Caldera with wonderful view, east to southwest. A mile in we paused for our mid-hike break, then continued on for another mile to enjoy the fresh air, blue sky, and amazing scenery (hoped to see more wildlife, but no such luck). It was then time to return to the Visitors Center and clear the Valles before it closed.
Highlight
There is -much more- to see in Valles Caldera. The road is open for visitors during the summer months and goes much further than we went. ‘Tho we were in the major -valley- area, one can go another 10 miles into the northern areas of the Caldera, where there are pleasant brooks, open meadow, numerous small mountains (1000 feet), and more. On the way home, we enjoyed a really good pizza in La Cueva, then stopped at Los Ojos in Jemez Springs for a beer .. and some good music (Friday night).
Statistics
Total Distance: 3.07 miles Elevation: start 8,686 ft, maximum 8,723 ft, minimum 8,633 ft Gross gain: 90 ft. Aggregate ascending 344 ft, descending 354 ft Maximum slope: 16% ascending, 14% descending, 3.6% average Duration: 2:41
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
For our final outing of the trip, we took Thomas to Bandelier National Monument. After the ride from White Rock on the shuttle, we started in the shade of the cottonwoods along the river where it was cooler.
The Walkabout
Bandelier Hike.PatThomas.2018-08-16 (The track is truncated at the beginning; I forgot to start the GPS. Disregard the blue graph of speed; GPS signal was lost while in the Alcove House.)
It was a very pleasant walk up to the Alcove House. Of course, we climbed up the ladders to the House. Then back down and returning to the Visitors Center via the Tyonyi Trail.
Statistics
Total Distance: 3.02 miles (added .2 mi to adjust for late start of GPS tracking) Elevation: start 6,098 ft, maximum 6,387 ft, minimum 6,068 ft Gross gain: 319 ft. Aggregate ascending 1,088 ft, descending 1,118 ft Maximum slope: 62% ascending, 60% descending, 12% average Duration: 1:59
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
Having spent the first night in the Vista Linda campground south of Jemez Springs, and its warm temperatures, and after a hike to Boletsakwa Ruins, we moved the R-Pod to the Jemez Falls campground. After setting up the camper, we drove to the back end of the campground and the trailhead to Jemez Falls.
The Hike
Jemez Falls Hike.PatThomas.2018-08-15
This was a very pleasant hike, with the cooler temperatures and easy trail to the overlook above the Falls. Returning to the camper, we set a fire to roast marshmallows and enjoy the cool of the evening.
Statistics
Total Distance: 0.66 miles Elevation: start 7,947 ft, maximum 7,947 ft, minimum 7,828ft Gross gain: 81 ft. Aggregate ascending 182 ft, descending 182 ft Maximum slope: 44% ascending, 50% descending, 10% average Duration: 0:32
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
This is the first hiking on a 3-day trip with grandson Thomas. Our original destination was one of the campgrounds further into the Jemez Mountains (and higher elevations), but with the threats of rain/thunderstorms, we holed up in the Vista Linda campground near Jemez Springs. We enjoyed the bubbling Jemez River adjacent to the campsite, but the conditions were hot. Once the R-Pod was set up, we headed to higher ground, Fenton Lake. Driving through the campground, we noted this for future camping. Near the back end of the campground, near the dam, we parked and set out on a short hike.
The Hike
Fenton Lake Hike.PatThomas.2018-08-14
This was a “walk in the woods”, really a stroll down the Rio Cebolla below the dam for Fenton Lake with Thomas. The trail is well used, easy walking even biking. Along the stream it is lush with grasses and flowers, as you can see in the photo gallery below. View the Gallery with captions for a brief narrative of the hike.
Statistics
Total Distance: 2.92 miles Elevation: start 7,676 ft, maximum 7,710 ft, minimum 7,612 ft Gross gain: 98 ft. Aggregate ascending 711 ft, descending 696 ft Maximum slope: 33% ascending, 32% descending, 7% average Duration: 2:38
If you haven’t explored these hiking tracks with Google Earth, I urge you to try it. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the screenshot above. For some ideas, check out Using Google Earth Track Files.
I’ve been entranced on so many hikes in New Mexico by the many flowers that seem to thrive here. I’ve photographed many of them with my Samsung/Android phone, but with mixed results. Now I have a Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS100, much better at getting good photos of objects up close, especially with its zoom lens. And this walk, with its lush growth of flowers, presented a great opportunity to get photos worth sharing.
Planning this hike, I turned to GoogleEarth to sketch out a route into new territory. Since I would be introducing Kelly to the area, I chose to begin the hike on FR 10 near the Kiatsukwa Ruins, then down into Goblin Colony. From there into Paliza Canyon, proceeding up-canyon, then climb back up to the mesa top to make a loop back to the truck. Using the normal GoogleEarth presentation, coupled with the USGS Topo overlay (see reference below), I chose a side canyon about 1.5 miles up Paliza Canyon that looked promising for the climb. Once on the mesa top, then down a canyon to more level terrain and an elevation near that of the truck. (See the Sketch .kml file below).
The Hike
Paliza Canyon Hike_Bushwhack.Kelly.2018-08-05
The hike went more or less as planned until we headed out of Paliza Canyon. First, we surveyed the Kiatsukwa Ruins; this is quite large, nearly 200 yards in length and 50 or more yards wide. Mostly consisting of mounds of rock and dirt, the general outline of the pueblo is clearly evident. In a few places one can see the shape of individual rooms. From there it was back onto FR 10, downhill until entering the top of Goblin Colony. We chose a route that descended through the middle of the ‘goblins’; we had a challenge finding a path that we could navigate (the preferred route is to descend on the ridge above the north extent of the ‘colony’ until reaching a lower elevation, then going south for views -up- into the main collection of ‘goblins’).
We then proceeded further down the canyon below Goblin Colony, crossing over into Paliza Canyon and heading up-canyon. ‘Tho there was no noticeable trail ‘on the ground’, the route was relatively easy. Reaching the side canyon that I had identified on the sketch, we turned left (north) to head up to the mesa top. This canyon became narrow, and soon we encountered a very narrow section effectively blocked by fallen trees (and maybe a rock face – we didn’t explore further). We made a tactical decision to tackle the climb up the side of this canyon – a poor choice. Though relatively free of impediments, the slope was -very- steep, so steep that one could barely keep from sliding back down. On the GoogleEarth track it is measured to be
Paliza Canyon Sketch 1 Revised
Statistics
Total Distance: 7.02 miles Elevation: start 7,714 ft, maximum 8,527 ft, minimum 7,062 ft Gross gain: 1,465 ft. Aggregate ascending 2,146 ft, descending 2,152 ft Maximum slope: 47% ascending, 48% descending, 9.4% average Duration: 7:15
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
Went looking for a hike with no snow or muddy roads, headed for FR 269 which goes up San Juan Canyon from the upper end of the village of Ponderosa. But … ’tis winter when the Forest Services closes many of the roads in the Jemez. This called for Plan B, which we decided would be to go up FR 10 beyond the Paliza Campground, to a point where we thought we might be able to descend into San Juan Canyon. No dice for that either – FR 10 was also closed.
The Hike
Ponderosa Mesa Hike.Jay.2018-02-18
Oh well …. We hiked up FR 10 to the top of Ponderosa Mesa, then headed into the woods looking for ruins at locations that I had found on Google Earth. What we found were the open areas but could not conclude that they were ruins sites; if sites, then they were covered after archeology work. But we think it’s more likely these sites were related to mining.
However … in the vicinity of the first area I saw a depression characteristic of a kiva which I’ve seen at other sites, and at each area we -did- find one-room ruins. The first one had very well defined walls, straight and at right angles to each other. At the other site, the shape of the structure was not so well defined, mostly a pile of rock rubble but clearly an example of Pueblo ruins.
Having hiked out about 2.9 miles, we headed back along FR 10 for a short distance, then descended into Goblin Colony for today’s mid-hike repast. From there, back to the truck.
Jay here: The mountain goat forgot to mention bushwhacking (or more accurately boulder whacking) up a canyon because “it’s more scenic than going by road.” Uh-huh. I still have scars from the last time we took the scenic route up a cliff face. Also, we took the route that skirts most of the upper portion of Goblin Colony which was much less difficult than the last time when we tried to come down the center line over some treacherous drops. It was like taking the relief route.
Statistics
Total Distance: 5.11 miles Elevation: start 6,982 ft, maximum 7,689 ft, minimum 6,915 ft Gross gain: 774 ft. Aggregate ascending 1,167 ft, descending 1,165 ft Maximum slope: 29% ascending, 34% descending, 7.3% average Duration: 3:43
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
This was our first foray into visiting Pueblo ruins in the Jemez Mountains based on a report from ondafringe, “Day Hike: Stable Mesa to Kiva Ruins“. I’ve since learned that these are the Tovakwa Pueblo ruins.
The Drive In
The drive to our trailhead was up NM 4 from San Ysidro, left onto NM 485 and up the Guadalupe Canyon (along the Guadalupe River), and through the Gilman Tunnels onto FR 376. Beyond the Tunnels about 7 miles, we parked just across the bridge at Porter.
The Hike
Stable Mesa and Kiva Ruins Hike.Jay.2015-05-03
We began the hike by going south on the east side of the river, starting a climb up the face of the mesa in about a mile. It was then up a rough, steep two-track to the top of Stable Mesa; that was quite a climb – steep, long, very rough and rocky two-track.
The mesa top is quite flat and level; starting north on a two track we encountered a very interesting rock formation with a large window looking west across the Guadalupe Canyon. And the views across, up, and down the canyon are awesome. I had only coordinates for our destination, the Kiva Ruins (also known as the Tovakwa Ruins). We continued in a northeast direction along a nice two-track until I decided we needed to head more south and east towards the Ruins. ‘Twas easy hiking in open ponderosa forest, generally level with a small valley (in Kansas we would call it a ‘draw’) to cross. (In the bottom of this draw we came across a collection of modern artifacts, like someone held a birthday party here. We conjectured over the reason – maybe really a party? someone’s GeoCache site? We’re still puzzled.)
As we followed the GPS pointer, I first saw some mounds of earth that didn’t look like something Mother Nature would have produced. Then, looking down (thanks, Vince, for teaching me to look for things ‘under our feet’), I saw what, on further inspection, proved to be sherds of pottery. I then suspected we were in the vicinity of Tovakwa. As we proceeded I saw a circular depression, thinking it was the site of a kiva. Continuing further we found more ‘unnatural’ mounds, more shards, and then the Great Kiva. All of this on the edge of Stable Mesa overlooking Canyon Cebollita. We also visited more ruins, these rectangular in shape, about .1 miles north of the Great Kiva.
Noting that we had an unnecessary excursion to the north in our track inbound, I turned to the GPS to shoot for a shorter track out. We returned to the draw, then followed it downhill until it fell off steeply towards Guadalupe Canyon. At that point we made the short climb back up onto Stable Mesa, then found our way to rejoin our inbound track and headed down the two-track and back to parking.
Highlight
The drive up Guadalupe Canyon is spectacular, with Gilman Tunnel most interesting. Then the ‘window rock’ once we were up on the Mesa, and the view across the canyon was impressive. And the goal, Tovakwa Pueblo ruins, was a among the most interesting sites we have visited, especially the remains of a large Kiva and the Long House. This was one of our longest hikes to date (2015), and one of the more strenuous – the climb up was challenging. It is one of my favorites.
Statistics
Total Distance: 8.07 miles
Elevation: start 7,175 ft, maximum 7,916 ft, minimum 7,175 ft
Gross gain: 741 ft. Aggregate ascending 1,676 ft, descending 1,669 ft
Maximum slope: 35% ascending, 48% descending, 6.9% average
Duration: 5:07
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
This was a combination trip – explore a Forest Road that has been on our to-do list (FR 10) and take advantage of the Forest Service’s permission to cut a Christmas tree. We first stopped by the Forest Service Ranger Station in Jemez Springs for our tree-cutting permit. For $10, we could go anywhere in the National Forest and cut any species of tree; we were given a map and suggestions on places to go. Since we had FR 10 on our minds, we chose to proceed on up NM 4, then start at the north end of FR 10 and exit at the south end, passing familiar places: Goblin Colony, Kiatsukwa and Boletsakwa ruins, and Paliza Campground on our way out.
The Drive In
FR 10 begins at NM 4, about 7 miles east of La Cueva, where one drives through the neighborhood of Vallecitos de los Indios. We travelled about 2.5 miles, including a stretch of road that is on the side of the mesa, thus a bit narrow with a steep falloff on the right. Once atop the mesa, we spontaneously decided to leave FR 10, turning right onto FR 136. This road was a two-track, but obviously heavily used. We drove along FR 136 for about 2.5 miles, where it began to get twisty and steep.
The Hike
FR10-FR136 Tree Cutting.Pat.2017-12-05
We parked and began hiking down the road with a couple of diversions toward the edge of the mesa for the impressive views down into the East Fork of the Jemez River. (We thought we were looking down upon Jemez Falls, which we visited recently. At home, looking at Google Earth, we were some distance downstream from the Falls; the view was spectacular none the less.) The second diversion led us to an area ideal for camping; with road access and opens pace, it is on our list for future overnight trips. And, from this vantage point, we looked down upon an amazing array of hoodoos; check out the photos below.
Another purpose for our diversions was to find a Christmas tree. There were many good looking trees from which to choose – we found one to our liking, cut it with the bow saw we had brought, and put it in the truck to take home. After a snack break, we headed back to FR 10 and south towards home.
Statistics
Total Distance: 2.35 miles Elevation: start 8,417 ft, maximum 8,493 ft, minimum 8,206 ft Gross gain: 287 ft. Aggregate ups & downs: ascending 665 ft, descending 666 ft Maximum slope: 48% ascending, 51% descending, 10% average Duration: 1:49
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
Having explored most of the canyons of of FR 144 and the lower portion of NM 126 above the Fish Hatchery, we set out to explore hiking off of FR 376. A couple of opportunities came to light by casting about via Google Earth and the topographic maps.
The Drive In
We chose to enter FR 376 from it’s north end, some 3 miles up NM 126 from La Cueva, and check out Trail Canyon, some 6 miles on FR 376 from NM 4.
The Hike
Trail Canyon Hike.Jay.2017-12-03
Our hike began where the Rio Cebolla crosses FR 376; Fenton Lake is upstream on the Rio Cebolla initially following a two-track. After crossing a fenced area (along the edge of private land), we found ourselves in an area of heavy downfall, the result of a fire sometime since 2014; the going was difficult, climbing over down tree trunks etc. Our track angled off to the left (from Rio Cebolla) to head up Trail Canyon. Here we were passing through generally forested territory (no trail, only occasional game trails) with some downfall.
The change in elevation was gradual; rock cliffs were interspersed with steep slopes to the canyon walls. As we neared the head of the canyon, it became narrower and the downfall more prevalent. We had set our sights on topping out at the canyon’s head, but having gone as far as we wished, we stopped for our mid-hike break at 3.5 miles. We hoped to find an alternative route to return to the truck, but each option we looked at seemed to involve a very steep descent back into the canyon or a large increase in distance. Thus, we returned on the outbound track, except for scirting the downfall in the burn area.
An added attraction to choosing to hike along FR 376, one can return to Albuqerque by proceeding south down the Guadalupe Canyon and the Rio Cebolla, a nice valley with a burbling stream that flows year round. At the placename Porter, the Rio Cebolla is joined by the Rio de las Vacas, becoming the Rio Guadalupe. FR 376 also leads to the Gilman Tunnels which are themselves interesting, but the canyon (also referred as the Guadalupe Box) is a surprise and it is stunning. (The road, FR 376, becomes NM 485 south of the Tunnels.)
Jay here: This hike was remarkable for both its length and distance. While the ascent was not particularly difficult, large portions of the canyon were filled with the kind of underbrush that gives you constant whiplash. The downed tree trunks section was also daunting. Getting to the head of the canyon surprised me as I truly thought we were going to be unable to reach that endpoint when I saw how the canyon narrowed more and more. A challenging hike for sure.
Statistics
Total Distance: 6.92 miles Elevation: start 7,489 ft, maximum 8,365 ft, minimum 7,489 ft Gross gain: 876 ft. Aggregate ascending 1,393 ft, descending 1,389 ft Maximum slope: 33% ascending, 32% descending, 6.6% average Duration: 4:45
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
