This was our 2nd hike on a 3-night camping trip to Jemez Falls Campground. This hike is a favorite of ours in Valles Caldera. It is an easy hike in a wonderful setting, ideal for introducing people to the Caldera without having to drive a half hour or more to get into the Preserve’s back country.
The Drive In
The trailhead for this hike is halfway down the road from the entrance to the Valles Grande National Preserve. From the Jemez Falls Campground, drive east on NM 4 for 7.5 miles. Turn into the Preserve, drive .6 miles, park near the two-track on the left which has a cable across it.
The Hike
Hidden Valley Trail Hike.PatJayNancy.2021-10-22
The trail begins as a two-track up the hill. Cresting the hill, the Missing Cabin comes into view. The cabin was built for Ron Howard’s movie “The Missing” in 2003 (re: FineArtAmerica); it adds a nice touch to the beautiful vista view across the Caldera. (While atop this hill, we scanned the Caldera for a herd of elk which frequent the area. We didn’t see any at the start of our hike, but did pick out a dark area indicating a herd way out in the middle, some two miles away.)
Abreast of the Cabin, the trail heads off to the left (westerly) through knee-high grass. Descending into the East Fork River valley, 300 yards ahead the trail rounds a rock outcrop. In another 300 yards the trail comes abreast of the river and follows it for the remainder of the trail. In another 600 yards the trail crosses to the north side and continues .8 mile to a point where, to go further, one would need to wade between rock walls that go right up to the edge of the river.
On the way back out, the view out of the canyon, across the Caldera, is breath taking (the featured image above).
Highlight
In a nutshell: The Views. Views of the Caldera, the forest, the cliff sides on both left and right, the burbling stream, the varied colors and textures of grasses and the autumn remains of summer flowers.
Statistics
Total Distance: 3.97 miles Elevation: start 8,545 ft, maximum 8,592 ft, minimum 8,464 ft Gross gain: 128 ft. Aggregate ascending 925 ft, descending 927 ft Maximum slope: 44% ascending, 40% descending, 6.1% average Duration: 3:02
If you haven’t explored these hiking tracks with Google Earth, I urge you to try it. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the screenshot above. For some ideas, check out Using Google Earth Track Files.
We returned to the Jemez Mountains for 3 nights of camping and 2 days of hiking in the Valles Caldera National Preserve. After setting up camp in the Jemez Falls Campground by early afternoon on the first day, we drove over the Fenton Lake to enjoy the autumn scenery – clear water, blue sky, and gold and brown grasses and trees.
For the big hike on this trip, set for the 2nd day, we planned a point-to-point hike from the Cabin District in Valles Caldera via VC02, into El Cajete, down El Cajete Canyon, and ending at the west end of Jemez East River Slot Canyon, where the East Fork Jemez River crosses NM 4.
The Drive In
For this point-to-point hike, we planned to go from within the Valles Caldera to where the East Fork Jemez River crosses NM 4:
First we parked a car on NM 4: drive east from the entrance to the Jemez Falls Campground for .3 miles. At the bottom of the hill, where the East Fork Jemez River crosses NM 4, park alongside the road. (In spite of the No Parking signs, there are almost always cars parked here, to collect obsidian just uphill, or to hike along the East Fork.)
To get to the trailhead in the Cabin District, we drove further east on NM 4 to the entrance to Valles Grande National Preserve (7.2 miles), then down the road to the Entrance Station (1.9 miles on nice New Mexico Pavement). We picked up our pass for entrance into the Preserve and received the standard warning that the gate closes at 1700 – we must be out of the Preserve by then. The road to the Cabin District (1.8 miles) is a bit rough but suitable for “highway” vehicles. Turning left at the ‘T’, we parked a bit south of the Visitors Center, just shy of a cable blocking further vehicle access to VC02.
The Hike
El Cajete Thru Hike Planning Track.2021-10-21
Advanced Planning: Pat & I had hiked a large part of this route earlier this year, ‘tho in two separate hikes. We made a loop hike from the cabin district covering 1.4 miles of the initial part of this day’s plan, the upper half of the blue line above (VC09-VC0201 Trail Hike – 09/31/2021). And we made an out-and-back hike from the west end into El Cajete itself, the lower half of the blue line (El Cajete Canyon Trail Hike – 08/30/2021). For this hike, using a combination of GPS tools, I was able to delete some of each track (keeping the portion of those hikes that were in the direction for this hike), and was able to connect the GPS fixes of each track segment closest to each other (the straight line in the middle of the blue line). The result was an end-to-end track that we could use for navigation for this El Cajete Through Hike.
El Cajete Through Hike.PatJayNancy.2021-10-21
The Hike: The hike began on a well used two-track across level ground on the edge of an open forest with a view across a valley and to South Mountain beyond. About 1.3 miles, we left the open valley behind and began a steady ‘tho gentle climb with open forest to the left, and to the right an extensive burn area with the typical downfall (more on downfall later). About 1.8 miles on, we crested the saddle between the valley of VC02 behind us and El Cajete Canyon ahead. We paused here for a mid-hike break, then began a steady descent towards a planned turn to the right that would take us over a ridge into the large open meadow – El Cajete.
After descending 1.8 miles and foreseeing more descent, and anticipating a climb up over the ridge to the right and into El Cajete, I was ready to stop going further downhill. Consulting the topo maps (USGS National Map Topo in the US Topo app), I proposed we turn to go more directly towards El Cajete. (I think) there was consensus – let’s go for it. So we climbed 150 feet onto a ridge, where we were faced with a steep descent into a small canyon and steep ascent to cross another ridge. Hoping to find an easier crossing of this small canyon, or to follow topo lines to the top of the next ridge, we headed up hill.
I mentioned downfall? Downed tree trunks from a fire some years ago covered this ridge. They covered the ground, having fallen at various angles so there was no place where we could walk for even a dozen steps before having to climb over one (or 2 or 3 lying side by side). When we saw what seemed to be an open path for a few yards, we encountered trees that we didn’t see initially. And often stepping over one trunk, there was another hiding behind the first ready to trap our foot or twist an ankle. Finally .5 miles up the ridge, we were able to cross over to the 2nd ridge where we had our first view of El Cajete. It was still .3 mile distant, downhill but … more downfall the whole distance. Adding to the stress of this strenuous track over downfall , uphill and downhill, we became concerned that we might be running short of time to get back to the Caldera before the gate was closed.
After the grueling hike up hill and down hill through all that downfall , we took a well earned break for lunch at the edge of El Cajete. Then, back on trail, what a relief it was to be on open, level ground, walking through only tufts of grass. Reaching the west end of El Cajete, we picked up the track of our earlier out-and-back hike. Back again on a decent two-track, it was a steady downhill 2.4 miles to NM 4. And we had time to spare, getting to the Entrance Station in time to fetch the vehicle at the Cabin District and leave the Caldera at 1630.
Jay here: Did someone say downfall? Or was that downhill? You could say it was an upper, but once we got going up hill, it felt like a downer. I lost count of how many trees we were stepping over/hurdling, but it was a lot. The hill was our enemy, but so was the clock. Anyhoo, we made it and can chalk this hike up to the unforgettable list. See Lessons Learned below!!
Highlight Lessons Learned
Stick to the Plan: In reviewing the GPS tracks, the planned track (blue) was only a couple hundred yards from our actual track (yellow), first from where we turned uphill, and again when were atop the 1st ridge. Aargh! Had we followed the plan, we would have shortened the hike by a half mile and … we would have avoided all the downfall.
Avoid Burn Areas: A downfall area dense with downed tree trunks requires -much more- energy than hiking, even uphill hiking. Stepping over trunks 1, 1.5, even 2 feet or more in diameter demands effort from almost every muscle in the body (including the brain – decision after decision). And larger trunks require sitting on them and swinging each leg over. I became so weary that I turned to a hiking pole to assist me in maintaining balance (the 1st time that I’ve came to depend on a pole. Because of the downed trees, this was the most strenuous hiking that any of us have done. Avoid!
Statistics
Total Distance: 7.08 miles Elevation: start 8,744 ft, maximum 9,144 ft, minimum 7,937 ft Gross gain: 1,207 ft. Aggregate ascending 1,273 ft, descending 2,068 ft Maximum slope: 36% ascending, 48% descending, 7.8% average Duration: 5:34
If you haven’t explored these hiking tracks with Google Earth, I urge you to try it. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the screenshot above. For some ideas, check out Using Google Earth Track Files.
First day’s hike during a camping trip to Jemez Falls Campground with Pat, Jay, and Nancy. At various times we had done out-and-back hikes from each end of this trail. This day, with two vehicles, we welcomed the opportunity to make it a point-to-point, or through hike.
The Drive In
The trailhead is .9 miles east on NM 4 from the entrance to the Jemez Falls Campground. From here, trailheads of the East Fork Trail go in both directions, to the west passes the Jemez Falls Trailhead (and Campground), terminating at Battleship Rock, And to the east the trail passes above The Box and terminates at the Las Conchas Trailhead. We were taking the latter trail.
The Hike
East Fork Jemez River Trail Hike.PatJayNancy.2021-09-18
‘Tis a good trail, from beginning to end, smooth surface, little elevation changes, and shaded. The first half mile is on a well used two-track, but then the trail veers off into a pleasant open forest. There are signs along the way for guidance (‘tho the trail is so well used one could hardly get disoriented).
At about 1.1 miles from the trailhead we took a spur trail down into the canyon (250′ descent) to take a look at the East Fork Box. The descent is steep, but in the steepest stairs make it easy. At the bottom a bridge conveniently provides a way to cross and walk a bit upstream to the point where the Box blocks further passage (without wading).
After climbing out of the canyon, we continued on the great trail. It does ascend some 300′ in a gentle slope over 1.5 miles or so, then descends back into the canyon and hooks up with the Las Conchas Trail for the last 1.5 miles. There are river crossings, but in each case a bridge provides for a dry passage. And along the river, the setting is lush with grasses, trees, mosses on the rocks, overall a most pleasant trail.
Highlight
A great day hiking with really great friends.
Statistics
Total Distance: 5.93 miles Elevation: start 8,113 ft, maximum 8,569 ft, minimum 7,947 ft Gross gain: 622 ft. Aggregate ascending 1,455 ft, descending 1,168 ft Maximum slope: 27% ascending, 33% descending, 6.7% average Duration: 4:52
If you haven’t explored these hiking tracks with Google Earth, I urge you to try it. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the screenshot above. For some ideas, check out Using Google Earth Track Files.
I joined Jay in Santa Fe for a hike on a nearby trail. We hiked Aspen Vista back in 2018, but for this hike we chose to start where Tesuque Creek crosses SR 475.
The Drive In
Quite straightforward: drive up SR 475, also known as Hyde Park Road. Little Tesuque Creek crosses 475 4.3 miles from the Hyde memorial State Park main entrance. There is parking on the right of the road for a few cars.
The Hike
Tesuque Creek and Aspen Vista Loop.Jay.2021-08-18
The trail proceeds up the North Fork of Tesuque Creek, identified on a sign as Big Tesuque Tr 152. The trail here is well used and easy going – a couple of hundreds yards along it crosses over a nice bridge to the north side of the creek and continues uphill at about a 10% grade. Along the way we saw a number of what appeared to be shelters, lean tos of a long branch leaning against a tree with many smaller straight branches leaning into it – curious.
At .8 miles, the trail intersects a jeep trail, Forest Road 150 (which takes one to the communications facility atop the mountain). Rather than turn right on the road (and follow the route of our previous hike), we chose to continue up Tesuque Creek. Wow, that was some choice – the grade quickly became much steeper (20%, 30%) and became more rocky and with tree roots. But the forest is healthy making the surroundings quite pleasant – aspen, fir, pine, and along the way a burbling creek. The going became really tough 1.4 miles into the hike, when the grade increased to a steady 40%. Nearing the top of what appeared to be a ridge, the forest opened up to a few conifers with a blanket of small shrubs covering the area. At the top of that section (1.7 miles on) we entered a cleared area that must be part of the ski runs of Santa Fe Ski Basin. The views were great, despite the haze that has settled in over New Mexico in recent days.
At this point, we debated – turn back retracing our route down or continue up the cleared area another .3 mile, and 450 feet, where we could get on the upper end of FR 150 and have an easier although longer return to the trailhead. Being uncomfortable with descending the steep, rough trail we had taken to this point, we opted to go for FR 150 despite it being 5 miles (vs 2 miles to the trailhead if we retraced our route up). So we climbed those 450 feet, then headed down the jeep trail.
Back to easy walking, we relaxed (and recovered) from the strenuous ascent. About 3/4 of a mile on, we avoided a lengthy loop by bushwhacking downhill, thus saving about half a mile. Not far past that point we realized that we had come upon the ridge and lookout where we had our lunch break on the previous Aspen Vista hike – it brought back more memories .. of another challenging hike for us. From there it was an easy downhill hike back to the trailhead (‘tho Jay was looking for something easier).
Jay here: Holy mother of all steep trails! Following the spring that runs down to the Aspen Vista trail was a pleasure. It lulled us into thinking this was the way it was going to be all the way up. Nope. When we got to the big ski hill, we could only go about 50 feet and then stop to get our wind back. A 40% grade is challenging to say the least. This hike was a major workout.
Highlight
A highlight? Probably — that we -did- it, for us a long and strenuous hike the likes of which we haven’t done in some time.
Statistics
Total Distance: 6.95 miles Elevation: start 9,670 ft, maximum 11,826 ft, minimum 9,670 ft Gross gain: 2,156 ft. Aggregate ascending 2,350 ft, descending 2,346 ft Maximum slope: 40% ascending, 30% descending, 14.0% average Duration: 4:53
If you haven’t explored these hiking tracks with Google Earth, I urge you to try it. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the screenshot above. For some ideas, check out Using Google Earth Track Files.
Jay and I returned to a trail we have enjoyed in the past (see Related Posts below).
The Drive In
Access to the trailheads for both trails is via the Forest Loop Rd off of NM 165 east of the Placitas Cafe. There are two entrances, not far from each other: from the Placitas Cafe the first one – .5 miles, the second one – .8 miles; the second one is preferred. The Loop Road is quite rough with rocks exposed throughout; a high-clearance vehicle isn’t required but the suspension of any vehicle will get a workout. There are two parking places, one for the Piedra Lisa trailhead (1.9 miles from NM 165), the other for Del Agua (2.0 miles from NM 165).
The Hike
Del Agua-Piedra Lisa Trails Hike.Jay.2021-04-27
We enjoyed our revisit to this loop and these two trails. The description for our hike back in 2019 covers it quite well.
Highlight
On the way down Piedra Lisa, not far from the intersection with Agua Sarca, we spotted an outcropping of white rock. It appeared to be similar to the “Quartz Outcrop” that we’ve hiked to a couple of times. If so, then we were unexpectedly close to that hike. But checking the topo map, and reviewing the tracks for the Quartz Outcrop hike, we concluded that it is another such Outcrop. And it becomes another destination, to cross the intervening arroyo from Piedra Lisa to inspect it more closely.
Jay Here: Just want to add that one of the terrific things about this hike was that on the entire way up and the way back, we did not encounter a single other hiker/biker. One of the advantages of being retired and hiking on a weekday!
Statistics
Total Distance: 4.17 miles Elevation: start 6,005 ft, maximum 7,047 ft, minimum 6003 ft Gross gain: 1044 ft. Aggregate ascending 1,485 ft, descending 1,486 ft Maximum slope: 40% ascending, 51% descending, 11.0% average Duration: 3:00
If you haven’t explored these hiking tracks with Google Earth, I urge you to try it. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the screenshot above. For some ideas, check out Using Google Earth Track Files.
Pat and I have hiked up Mount Taylor, last year and 2 years ago, and we were looking forward to doing it again. Jay and Nancy were intrigued and also wanted to ‘go the distance’. So we scheduled a 2-night camping trip, giving us a day to make the climb.
The Drive In
Because Jay & Nancy are tent-campers, we planned on camping in the Coal Mine Campground. Arriving there, we discovered that is not yet open for this year, But, Pat and I provided a fallback; from the 2020 Post:
“We had an easy drive to Grants, then through Lobo Canyon on NM 547 to FR 193 and on to our target campsite. The road has fresh, deep gravel (a Class 3 road) but the Tacoma/R-Pod handled it easily. We chose the campsite closer to the trailhead; an added benefit – it is located on the edge of Lobo Canyon and thus affords better views than the other campsites. This, our first setup outside of an established campground, challenged us in maneuvering the R-Pod among trees and rocks to an area relatively level – great experience for future forays.”
The hike this year is much like Pat & I did last year, at least the ascent; I won’t repeat the description, but invite you to review that BLOG post. For the descent, we opted to follow the precedent of our first hike to the summit: descend on the trail to the tree line, then turn right to follow Gooseberry Creek down to it’s junction with the Gooseberry Spring trail.
As we continue to embrace New Mexico’s vistas and features, we very much enjoyed the views from the many vantage points on the trail up Mount Taylor. The open forest through which we pass for the first half of the hike is so very pleasant, with the healthy aspen, ponderosa, and fir trees. Then above the edge of the trees, the views of the slopes ahead and along one section to the right are breathtaking. Out on the slope of the last half of the ascent the views to the west and south are wondrous. Topping out on the summit opens more views to the south and east.
Please step through the gallery of photos below to get a sense of what I’m trying to describe, and some descriptions of the hike.
Highlight
Inspecting maps closely, I had noted that the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) passed near our campsite. Then, a half mile into the hike a young woman caught up with us. It appeared by her pack that she was backpacking. Chatting briefly we learned that she had come from Grants and was in fact a through-hiker on the CDT. A half mile later, we caught up with her as she was chatting with Cheshire Cat (his trail name). He was introduced as a Trail Angel, well known by CDT through-hikers, particularly for providing ice cream sandwiches out on the trail. After a convivial conversation, the hiker continued ahead (being new at this through-hiking universe, we didn’t think to ask her trail name), and she was soon out of sight. Cheshire Cat headed back to the trailhead and his crazy-painted car (unfortunately, we didn’t think to take a picture of the car as we began our hike). And we continued on our way.
(Cheshire Cat challenged us with a $1,000,000 bet: who has right-of-way, a hiker going uphill or one going downhill? We all posited – uphill has right-of-way. He asserted that downhill has precedence, his logic being that one going downhill has difficulty stopping, particularly on a steep, rocky slope. ‘Tho that seemed to make sense to all of us, we continued to think – uphill. So I guess we have and IOU to him.)
As we were climbing up the switchbacks on the upper half of the ascent, we noticed another hiker gaining on us. A couple of hundred yards from the top, she caught up and went ahead. Upon arriving at the peak, she was there taking photos. We exchanged cameras to get ‘selfies’ to document our arrival. We invited her to join us while we had lunch, which she graciously agreed. We enjoyed great conversation, learning that her trailname is “No-No”, that she has been on the CDT for close to a month (starting at the US-Mexico border) and plans to finish at the Canadian border come September.
As we prepared to head back down, No-No told us we might encounter another through-hiker, trailname “Beer Goddess”. And .. as we returned to -the summit, a young woman was there taking her documentary photos. We may have surprised her, asking if she was Beer Goddess. Yes, she said, as we told her No-No was just ahead, packing up to continue on the trail. After getting a picture of her on her camera, we continued on our way, back down Mount Taylor.
Postscript
During our descent, we were reminded of our first hike on Mount Taylor back in 2018. Pat & I hiked to the saddle not far above the tree line. It was a great introductory hike and gave us perspective (and confidence) that we could hike to the summit. We returned two weeks later to ‘go to the top’. Reflecting on those experiences, and in conversation with Nancy & Jay, it occurred to us that others may hike to this half-way point, a bit more than half way in distance and half way in elevation gain. Such a hike would not be so strenuous and would give one great views all around, especially the last 1/4 mile along the east side of the ridge, with a beautiful view across Rinconada Canyon. Then descend, as we did, down into Goosberry Canyon, back to the Trail and to the trailhead.
Statistics
Total Distance: 6.31 miles Elevation: start 9,275 ft, maximum 11,309 ft, minimum 9,275 ft Gross gain: 2,034 ft. Aggregate ascending 2,246 ft, descending 2,247 ft Maximum slope: 40% ascending, 41% descending, 12.8% average Duration: 6:44
If you haven’t explored these hiking tracks with Google Earth, I urge you to try it. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the screenshot above. For some ideas, check out Using Google Earth Track Files.
This hike took place during a 2-night camping trip with the primary purpose – to visit the Three Rivers Petroglyph Site. After our morning tour of the Petroglyphs and lunch in the Three Rivers Campground, we set out on the Three Rivers Trail.
The trailhead is at the east end of the Three Rivers Campground. It starts out with a smooth dirt surface, in somewhat open space – typical juniper/piñon forest, with a few ponderosa. A few yards on the trail crosses to the north side of the streambed (no water here) and to the junction of the Three Rivers and Goat Canyon trails. Slope for the first mile or so, to the junction with the Dry Canyon Trail, the canyon is wide and open. Then the canyon narrows and there abouts we encountered water in the stream.
As the canyon narrowed and the trail made an “S” turn to the right, the sides of the canyon became more vertical, becoming cliffs towering above the streambed some 800 feet – awesome sights. We encountered a couple more stream crossings, easy because not a lot of water was flowing. We continued up the narrow canyon to find a “cave” and waterfall that are noted on the topo maps. Though the view of the waterfall was obscured by trees, we could see that on another day when there was a greater flow in the stream, it would be impressive.
After our mid-hike for lunch, we returned down the canyon, having enjoyed a truly great day in the mountains of New Mexico.
Postscript
We departed the Campground mid-day Sunday. Checking news Monday, we learned that the Three Rivers Fire had started 1/2 mile from the Campground Monday morning. By Tuesday the Forest Service reported it had grown to 12,000 acres and containment was only 5%. By Wednesday, after some rain and snow in the area, control was being established. But … it -must- have burned through and around the Three Rivers Canyon, -the- area through which we enjoyed such great hike on a wonderful trail. Most Unfortunate!! It will be years (decades?) before people will have such a beautiful place to hike as we enjoyed.
Statistics
Total Distance: 4.90 miles Elevation: start 6,423 ft, maximum 7,516 ft, minimum 6,423 ft Gross gain: 1,093 ft. Aggregate ascending 1,398 ft, descending 1,397ft Maximum slope: 34% ascending, 37% descending, 9.0% average Duration: 3:51
If you haven’t explored these hiking tracks with Google Earth, I urge you to try it. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the screenshot above. For some ideas, check out Using Google Earth Track Files.
This 2-night camping trip with Jay and Nancy was planned so we could visit the Three Rivers Petroglyph Site. The Petroglyph Trail is just under a mile in length, so we chose to tour the Petroglyphs in the morning, then take a full hike after lunch. Visiting the Site in the cooler air of the morning was a good choice; later in the day it would become quite hot – there is no shade from the sun in New Mexico’s invariably clear blue skies.
The Drive In
We drove from Albuquerque the day before: I-25 to Moriarty, NM 41 to Willard, NM 42 to Corona, US 54 south to Carrizozo, then 13 miles further on US 54 to the Three Rivers Trading Post. Turn left onto Three Rivers Road, 15 miles to the campground which is tucked up against the Sierra Blanca mountains (total: 4 hours with the R-Pod, 192 miles). On the way to the campground, we passed the Petroglyph Site about 3 miles from the highway
The Walkabout
Three Rivers Petroglyph Trail Walkabout.PatJayNancy.2021-04-24
Parking next to the Visitors Center (closed these days), we started up a well-worn trail towards the ridge where there are some 21,000 petroglyphs. And only a few yards on we saw the first of them.
[Double-click on a photo to enlarge, use browsers <Back One Page to return to this page.>
From there the trail became a bit rocky, but we soon saw more and more of the petroglyphs. In some places we climbed off-trail to get a better look closer to them.
There are so many images among the petroglypy. We picked up a Visitors Guide which offered explanations for many of the images as well as a sketch of the history of the Site.
All of this while having a marvelous view across the Tularosa Basin to the San Andres Mountains 45 miles to the west.
Statistics
Total Distance: 1.16 miles Elevation: start 4,988 ft, maximum 5,097 ft, minimum 4,981 ft Gross gain: 116 ft. Aggregate ascending 201 ft, descending 205 ft Maximum slope: 27% ascending, 22% descending, 5.8% average Duration: 1:31
If you haven’t explored these hiking tracks with Google Earth, I urge you to try it. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the screenshot above. For some ideas, check out Using Google Earth Track Files.
This is the 3rd post for a 5-day camping and hiking trip to the Chiricahua Mountains with our friends Jay and Nancy. Having taken a short walk on the Cave Creek Nature Trail the day we arrived at the Stewart Campground (post #1), then the Over the Ridge to Paradise Hike the next day (post #2). There are a number of trails from which to choose, but on this 3rd day in Cave Creek Canyon we chose another point-to-point hike, a portion of Basin Trail #247.
The Drive In
As for the Over the Ridge hike, we first left a car at the end-of-hike trailhead, then drove to the start-of-hike trailhead.
For the end-of-hike trailhead: From Stewart Campground, drive west on FR 42 until just past the Southwestern Research Station, where turn left onto FR 42A towards the Herb Martyr Campground. This is a primitive campground (tents only, although there was a small pop-up camper set up down a short rough road); there is ample parking for the trails that emanate from here.
For the start-of-hike trailhead: From Herb Martyr, on FR 42A return to FR 42, turn left at the Research Station and continue for 2.7 miles, 1.5 miles beyond the trailhead for the Over the Ridge hike. There is a parking are a bit off of FR 42 to the left, and a sign for the “Basin Trail No 247”.
The Hike
Basin Trail #247 Hike.PatJayNancy.2021-03-23
We chose a north-to-south hike so that we would have the ascending portion of the trail to start and the longer downhill portion to finish. Most of the trail easy easy to follow, well used. It proceeds through open piñon and juniper forest, with a a few switchbacks during the 500′ climb to the highest point on the trail (1.1 miles). Once crossing over the ridge, the trail becomes a bit more rocky (still well used, easy to follow) and one leaves the forest for more open, desert-like landscape.
The next .7 miles is an easy descent with some switchbacks, then the trail follows the contour of the terrain for 1.2 miles. From these portions of the trail, the views of this of the southeastern Chiricahuas are really great. Then the trail makes an easy descent for the next .8 miles with a wide variety of desert plants: lots of yucca, cholla, varieties of cacti, agave, manzanita, and other scrub bushes.
The maps and GPS tracks I was following tracked well the trail as we found it. However, nearing what we thought was the end, a combination of inconsistent GPS tracks and trailside signs created some confusion. At one point, where the trail intersected a two-track, there was a sign pointing down the two-track. My interpretation of the map – that would lead us to FR 42A a half mile or so from where our vehicle was parked, then nearly a half mile walk up the road. It appeared to me we could avoid the road by continuing across the two-track onto a continuation of -a- trail (which one?). After some indecisiveness, we chose the trail. The choice made for a somewhat longer hike, but it was easy ambulating and led us to the parking area. This was a great hike.
Note: After-the-fact reviews of GPS tracks that I had collected, it became apparent that we had stumbled onto another trail published widely, the the Ash Spring Loop.
Highlight
A highlight of this trail was the varied plants and especially the agave that we passed all along the descending portion of the trial. I was taken back to our visits in Oaxaca where agave abound (and are -the- ingredient in Oaxaca’s special spirit – mezcal).
The Drive Out
We enjoyed a 3rd night camping, ‘tho like the night before, it was a bit chilly and … during the night wet weather set in with drizzling rain, sometimes mixed with soft popcorn snow. Jay & Nancy needed to get home, so they headed out into iffy weather and road conditions. Not wishing to face possibly poor road conditions, Pat & I chose to remain in Stewart for another day. The weather in the area remained drizzly, and at higher elevations – snowy. That did make for some beautiful scenes, looking at snow-capped mountains, — here in extreme southeastern Arizona —.
For our lay-day, we drove back towards Rodeo and visited the Chiricahua Desert Museum – what an amazing museum to find in this remote location. It’s focus is on rattlesnakes with a few turtles, many alive. The display cases recreated the natural habitat of the snakes with a quality that I would compare to the Smithsonian’s. In addition, they have a collection of artifacts from the tribes local to the Chiricahua and Peloncillo Mountains. And the gift shop is excellent. — And next door is the Geronimo Event Center where very well done posters gave an excellent review of the history of the the Apaches in this area, especially the famous Apache leader Geronimo. These are must-see as part of a trip into this “remote” part of New Mexico.
A note here about “services” in the area.
Cell phone service is spotty, even out on the plains beyond Portal towards Rodeo, and in Rodeo as well.
WiFi service is available at the Portal Peak Lodge Store & Cafe; an ‘open’ WiFi is available, but if you eat there ask for the password for their secure WiFi – that worked quite well (even when we stopped on the way through Portal and parked in front of the Store.
“Essentials” that one might need (didn’t bring or ran out): The Portal Peak Store has a limited selection. However, a much larger inventory is available back towards Rodeo, at the Sky Island Grill and Grocery.
Eating Out: sandwiches, pizza, and a limited selection of beer are available at the Portal Peak Cafe; we had lunch there when Jay & Nancy arrived on the 1st day. A larger menu is offered by the Sky Island Grill.
After a night in Stewart Campground with rain and snow continuing, the weather cleared in the morning and we set out for home; leaving Cave Creek Canyon we looked back to see the Chiricahuas covered in snow – what a beautiful site. We planned to split the trip over 2 days, to spend a night near Truth or Consequence. After some research, we settled on the South Monticello Campground where we could make reservations. The site overlooks the northern end of Elephant Butte Lake with well designed and well kept campsites. The sites are spaced far apart, good because the surroundings are quite open – no forest here.
The next day, driving up I-25 we were surprised to see snow on all the “mountain islands” – the San Mateos, the Magdalenas, even Ladrone, and the Manzanos.
Statistics
Total Distance: 5.52 miles Elevation: start 6,246 ft, maximum 6,704 ft, minimum 5,825 ft Gross gain: 458 ft, Aggregate ascending 1,143 ft, descending 1,563 ft Maximum slope: 36% ascending, 25% descending, 7.5% average Duration: 5:17
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
This is the 2nd post for a 5-day camping and hiking trip to the Chiricahua Mountains with our friends Jay and Nancy. We had driven from Albuquerque, spending a night at the Rockhound State Park Campground before making the last leg to the Chiricahuas and setting up our R-Pod in the Stewart Campground in Cave Creek Canyon.
The Drive In
A lot of research went into planning this hiking trip. I found many sources and many trails, long and short, large and small elevation gain. We had many to choose from, but not having visited the area before, the decision was difficult. Something about this trail intrigued me, especially since it was presented as a point-to-point hike. And having two vehicles made it possible.
The drive from the campground was straightforward:
First step was to leave a vehicle at the northern terminus of the “trail”:
Drive east on Portal Road for 2 miles, take the hard left onto Paradise Road. (We missed the turn and went halfway to Portal before realizing our mistake and had to backtrack.)
Then it’s 6 miles on Paradise Road to the “trailhead”. On the way you will go through the “residential area” of Paradise.
Parking is just off Paradise Road on the right where a 2-track heads north. A sign at the turnoff warned us – the road beyond was “Impassable” (no explanation). But FR 42 passes through the Chiricahuas to the western side, so we suspect an explanation was missing, and it was meant as a warning for larger vehicles (like may signs we had seen previously on FR 42).
Then it’s retrace that route:
Returning to Stewart Campground continue west on FR 42 for .75 miles
At a Y in the road bear right (don’t go straight onto S Fork Rd).
Continue for 3.2 miles to the “trailhead”, which is a large parking area and corral; there were wranglers and pack horses and mules there that day.
[With the quotes (“) above I’m suggesting that the idea of a “trail” and “trailhead” is being quite generous, as you will see in what follows.]
The Hike
Over The Ridge To Paradise Hike.PatJayNancy.2021-03-22
We “packed up” for the hike and went looking for a “trailhead”; nothing was obvious, ‘tho there was more than one “trail” leaving from the perimeter of the corral’s parking area. We chose one and off we went, on “trails” that were at times easy to discern, at other times barely discernible. And in some places there were Ys in the “trail”. I was following our route with a GPS track with which I attempted to choose the “trail” that most closely followed the track. That worked most of the time, but in one instance I chose a “trail”that took us on the east side of the ravine, away from what we concluded would have been closer to the GPS track. Facing more a difficult route, we managed to find our way back to a better “trail”. And that was characteristic of the hike – uncertain just where the “trail” was, which path to follow (we came to suspect they were mostly pack animal trails) – but I believed that staying in or near the ravine would take us “up and over” to Paradise (tho’ some among us were skeptical).
The GPS track that we were using as a guide identified a point off of the trial that afforded a better view of Silver Peak and more of the Chiricahuas. Inspecting closely the Forest Service map on USTopo, we noted that it was a 2-track and would make for easier hiking than we’d experienced so far, even ‘tho it was uphill. The view as great; the sheer rock outcroppings, hundreds of feet high, are impressive. Then we headed back down, stopped for our mid-hike break, and continued to the “trailhead” on a 2-track.
Highlight
Highlight? Maybe it was overcoming doubts about whether we were on the “trail” or had wandered afield. But to find that we had made it “Over the Ridge to Paradise” – the ‘highlight’?
Camping
The camping was most pleasant. The sites are far enough apart to give one a sense of privacy, especially with the rocky streambed adjacent to the site. The weather both days was quite pleasant daytime; the temperatures dropped to 40 or below at night, so it was a might chilly for Jay & Nancy in their tent. Pat & I were happy to have our R-Pod, tho’ it too can get cold during the night (but the heater warms the small cabin quickly in the morning).
Statistics
Total Distance: 3.17 miles Elevation: 5,671 start ft, maximum 5,993 ft, minimum 5,618 ft Gross gain: 375 ft. Aggregate ascending 751 ft, descending 800 ft Maximum slope: 23% ascending, 32% descending, 8.0% average Duration: 3:29
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
This was our 2nd hike on a 3-night camping trip to Jemez Falls Campground. This hike is a favorite of ours in Valles Caldera. It is an easy hike in a wonderful setting, ideal for introducing people to the Caldera without having to drive a half hour or more to get into the Preserve’s back country.
The trail begins as a two-track up the hill. Cresting the hill, the Missing Cabin comes into view. The cabin was built for Ron Howard’s movie “The Missing” in 2003 (re: FineArtAmerica); it adds a nice touch to the beautiful vista view across the Caldera. (While atop this hill, we scanned the Caldera for a herd of elk which frequent the area. We didn’t see any at the start of our hike, but did pick out a dark area indicating a herd way out in the middle, some two miles away.)
In another 300 yards the trail comes abreast of the river and follows it for the remainder of the trail. In another 600 yards the trail crosses to the north side and continues .8 mile to a point where, to go further, one would need to wade between rock walls that go right up to the edge of the river.
In a nutshell: The Views. Views of the Caldera, the forest, the cliff sides on both left and right, the burbling stream, the varied colors and textures of grasses and the autumn remains of summer flowers.
