Category Archives: 2020

Mesa Prieta Expedition – 03/17/2020

‘Tis an ‘expedition’, planning to drive on roads not yet explored (DriveAbout), with intentions of hiking somewhere along the way.

The Drive In

  • From Albuquerque
    • I-25 to Bernalillo,
    • west on US 550 (20 miles)
    • turn left Cabezon Road, continue through the Ojito Wilderness to Pipeline Road (Cabezon Ts into Pipeline at a pumping station (~13 mile)
    • turn right (northwest) on Pipeline Road (~7.2 miles)
    • turn left on a road that skirts the northern extent of Mesa Prieta to a 3-way intersection (~7 miles)
    • turn right to the intersection with NM 279 (~7 miles)
    • turn right on NM 279 and back to US 550 (~14 miles)

We’re familiar with the drive through Ojito, having enjoyed numerous hikes in the Wilderness. And I had been north on Pipeline some distance but was unsure what lay beyond: it proved to be a Class 4 road (graded dirt, no gravel, high clearance not required, not suitable when any of it is wet). After turning left, to the southwest, the road was much the same. And .. it brought us closer to Mesa Prieta, a place we would like to explore. Luckily, we can upon the two-track that I had spotted in GoogleEarth that appeared to end at the base of the slope up to the Mesa.

So we checked it out, only to find a gate that blocked our path not far off of the road. We turned back and continued southwest on the road. A pickup was following faster than we were driving, so I stopped to let them pass. -They- stopped and during a congenial conversation during which we told them of our interest, they invited us to go through the gate (and a 2nd one) to the tank where the two-track ended. Since this met our wishes, we returned to the two-track, through the gates, and to the tank, from which we made our hike. Note: Checking later on GoogleEarth with the “Surface Ownership” overlay, I discovered that we were on BLM land throughout.

…. Upon returning from the hike, we returned to the road and continued per our plan, through Cañon del Camino (mention in Nasario Garcia’s film “Nasario Remembers the Rio Puerco“) past Cerro Cochino to the intersection (turning left there would lead to the childhood homestead of Nasario Garcio which we visited in 2018). Then north passing other volcanic necks and west of Cabezon, onto NM 279 and on to US 550. There are so many interesting places to be explored – varying topography (per GoogleEarth), canyons, ridges and mesas, so much more. Note: After that first turn off of Pipeline Road, the land is BLM or NM State owned, as was the whole of the hike. Only when one gets near the top of this north slope of Mesa Prieta does it become private land.

The Hike

North Mesa Prieta Hike.Pat.2020-03-17

Having received clearance to pass through the gates, we turned back to the turnoff onto the two-track, an easy Class 5, and drove to the “tank”. Donning our packs, we set out  .. uphill on a rocky surface (no trail here to follow). As we ascended the slope, the views from west to east across the Rio Puerco valley were stunning, even on this day with clouds and a hazy atmosphere. We could see volcanic necks all around, small and large (Cabezon), and the northern extent of Chivato Mesa to the west.

We reached a point where a route further up the slope appeared quite daunting, and we found a rock outcrop above a cliffside that would make a great place for our mid-hike break/lunch – a level ground with a great view. Then we reviewed our options for going down – retrace our steps (steep, rocky surface) or a less steep path down one of the ridges that we could see from that vantage point. We chose the latter, which proved to be an easier route. Reaching the base of the slope, we skirted a -very deep- arroyo (it amazes us to see such deep crevices created by erosion), climbed over a small ridge into another valley. From there it was an easy half mile back to the truck.

Statistics

Total Distance:  1.72 miles
Elevation: start  6,515 ft, maximum  6,882 ft,  minimum  6,567 ft
Gross gain:  825 ft.  Aggregate ascending  579 ft, descending  597 ft
Maximum slope: 32% ascending, 37% descending, 12.3% average
Duration: 3:29

GPS Track Files for Download
213 Downloads
275 Downloads
108 Downloads
179 Downloads

I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

Quebradas-Ojo de Amado Hikes- 03/12/2020

‘Tis winter and there is still snow in the mountains, so we turned south for dry roads and hiking, plus March is a better time of year to visit places that are as open as the Quebradas Back Country Byway – it will be hot in the summer. Through research I identified a place of interest not far from the entrance to the Byway: Ojo de Amado and Bursum Springs, the Gonzales Mine, and an arch somewhere nearby.

The Drive In

Getting off of I-25 at Escondida, then through the village, over the the railroad tracks and Rio Grande, then left at the sign to the Quebradas Back Country Byway. We continued on this dirt/gravel road (“New Mexico pavement”, by our categorization a Class 3 road) for about 3 miles, then a turnoff to the right where we parked.

The Hike

Quebradas-Ojo de Amado Hikes.Pat.2020-03-12
The face of the excavations of the Gonzales Mine,

The hike commenced downhill into Cañon de los Piños on a two-track (for us, a Class 4 road). Reaching the bottom we identified the excavation in the south side of the cañon that we took to be the Gonzales Mine. The formation had quite interesting features, layers of some flaky material separating gray rock material. We could imagine students from the nearby New Mexico Institute of Mining & Technology making field trips to get acquainted with this geology. I had read that there was a rock arch nearby, so we walked down the cañon floor for a half mile or so. On the way back up the cañon we took a brief look into a side cañon – possibly it would be up there out of our sight.

Ojo de Amado.

The next point of interest was a (dry) waterfall that we saw on our way down into the canyon – the Ojo de Amado and the Bursum Spring. The rock face for the waterfall was most interesting. Curious about what was above the waterfall, we searched for a means to get above it. We saw indications of a path up the west hillside, but chose not to pursue it further and returned to the truck.

Our “kitchen” for coffee & chocolate, as well as carrots, apples, and PB&J sandwiches.

Still curious about what was above Ojo de Amado, back on the Byway we drove a bit further, parked along a small two-track, and walked to the edge where we could see down into the cañon. It satisfied our curiosity – there was another pond above Ojo de Amado, which we presume is Bursum Spring. With the great scenery across this backcountry, we set up the “kitchen” for our afternoon repast, then returned to the truck and home.

Statistics

Hike #1:
Total Distance:  2.26 miles
Elevation: start  4,875 ft, maximum  5,021 ft,  minimum  4,829 ft Gross gain:  193 ft
Aggregate ups & downs:  ascending  381 ft, descending  381 ft
Maximum slope: 43% ascending, 36% descending, 5.7% average
Duration: 2:23

Hike #2:
Total Distance:  0.5  miles
Elevation: start  5,082 ft, maximum  5,085 ft,  minimum  4,954  ft Gross gain:  131
Aggregate ups & downs:  ascending  173 ft, descending  174 ft
Maximum slope: 51% ascending, 39% descending, 13.2% average
Duration: 1:03

GPS Track Files for Download
233 Downloads
184 Downloads
125 Downloads
103 Downloads
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

References and Resources

BLM: Quebradas Backcountry Byway
NM Bureau of Geology & Mineral Resources:
      A Geologic Guide to the Qebradas Back Country Byway
      Quebradas Guide  20120 (PDF)                        
New Mexico True: Quebradas Backcoutry Scenic Byway
Recreation.gov: Quebradas Backcountry Byway
Dog of the Desert: Gonzales Mine from the Quebradas Byway
Southern New Mexico Explorer: Arroyo del Tajo – Quebradas Backcountry Byway
Southwest Armchair Traveler: #Hiking #NewMexico – Bursum Springs, Quebradas
Geocaching: Singing Rock

Bosque Trail Morning Walk – 03/22/2020

It’s been another year since the last post of our morning walks; here’s the version for 2020.

Even in this time of “social distancing” due to Covid-19, it’s important for us to get outside. Fortunately we can walk from home to Open Spaces to help keep us healthy, body and spirit. So, it’s up early to get out while the sun is still in its “sunrise phase”. We call ahead for our morning drinks from Java Joe’s, pick them up at the door to honor the health precautions. Then it’s down Park Avenue, past the Country Club and to Tingley Beach (there is virtually -no- traffic on the street these days).

The Hike

Bosque Trail Morning Walk.Pat.2020-03-22

Crossing the drain alongside Tingley Dr, we discover that a barrier has been placed across the entrance to Tingley Beach (we had discovered two days ago that gates into the Beach on the other side, along the Paseo del Bosque Trail, and into the parking lots had been closed and locked). With the Beach closed, we continued on the roadway alongside the Drain to Central Avenue. We saw numerous pairs of mallard ducks and Canada geese and even a muskrat. 

Walking a short distance from the drain along Central Avenue, we entered the Bosque trails. We made our usual stop at the pier overlooking the Rio Grande to  enjoy the open skies view, check the level of the River, and do some stretching of our leg muscles. Back on the trail, we stop by the two ponds that are havens for wildlife: many kinds of waterfowl and, in the previous two days, a pair of golden eagles in trees on the far side of the 2nd pond.

From the ponds it’s back across the Bosque Bike Trail, the drain, and into the residential neighborhood. We walk across the end of Kit Carson Park and onto Reynolds Avenue to return home. At the corner of Kit Carson and Raynolds, we admire some more ‘wildlife’, a sculpture of a group if interesting, if imaginary animals. Then it’s on to Gold Avenue and home. Almost 4 miles – fresh air, time with Mother Nature, and keeping up the fitness for hiking – there are so many amazing places we plan on visiting here in New Mexico.

Statistics

Total Distance: 3.75 miles
Elevation: start 4,951 ft, maximum 4,964 ft, minimum 4,948 ft
Gross gain: 16 ft. Aggregate ascending 131 ft, descending 130 ft
Maximum slope: 7% ascending, 6% descending, 0.8% average
Duration: 2:24

GPS Track Files for Download
94 Downloads
88 Downloads
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

Cerro Cuate Expedition – 03/03/2020

This time of year is the best for exploring the Rio Puerco valley. Winter brings snow which make the roads really nasty, and summer is hot (and the monsoon season in late summer often makes roads impassable). So this is the first of more visits we plan to make into this amazing space this spring.

The Drive In

This day’s plan was to take the easiest entrance into the Rio Puerco from Albuquerque: 4o miles west from Bernalillo on US 550, then south (left) on NM 279 (also known as San Louis Road). We had only general ideas for our destination – possibly visit the Guadalupe Ruins or wander west towards the remains the Azabache Stagecoach Station on the old stage line from Milan to Cuba. But as we approached the first volcanic neck, Cerro Cuate, we were intrigued by the idea of visiting it “up close”.

We turned to US Topo to see if we could identify a road or two-track that would permit us to get close enough to hike up on its slopes. We found one that might allow us to get closer. Nope, a quarter of mile off of NM 279 it ended at a corral. Back on NM 279 we were intercepted by a rancher with whom we had a nice conversation, and who wished us well in our pursuit.

We identified another two-track further along NM 279. Again about a quarter of a mile in we encountered a sign: “No Trespassing”; we turned around. Halfway back to NM 279 we were met by another rancher. During a most pleasant conversation we explained our goal and that we had honored the sign. He told us we were welcome to go further but that we would come to the end of the two-track in a mile or less. Having told him we were planning to hike from there, he advised us that we might find it difficult to cross the arroyo. (In the Rio Puerco, these arroyos are channels cut in the soft clay soil, 10 or more feet deep with sheer vertical sides, and often going for many hundreds of yards without a route to cross.) He did add that another two-track, just beyond the –third cattle guard– back on NM 279, might permit us to get closer to Cerro Cuate. We decided to check it out on another day.

The Hike

Cerro Cuate Hike.Pat.2020-03-03
Example of an arroyo found  everywhere in the Rio Puerco.

At home on GoogleEarth, I had identified an unusual feature, a dark circular area that was near our location. I thought it might be a ‘vent’ (there are such vents along US 550 just west of San Ysidro); at least it was a feature of interest. Parking the truck a bit further along NM 276, we set out across the open space with US Topo guiding us accurately to the placemark that I had recorded at home. On the way we came across a smaller of the many arroyos that can interfere with such wanders; this one we could bypass.

A nice spring out in the middle of this wide valley.

Nearing the placemark we discovered that the feature is a spring. It is some 50 feet across with surrounded by reeds (and a few of the tamarisk, an invasive shrub/tree that is present wherever the is some water). The water was quite clear, and there was a small stream flowing from it.  

Sidenote: you will notice in the accompanying photos that mesas surrounded us. And you will see a few of the many volcanic necks that populate this area of the Rio Puerco. In every direction, the views of mesas, necks, and New Mexico’s -blue skies- make for great scenery.

A small adobe cabin not far from the spring.

On the way to the spring, we had noticed what appeared to be a small man-made structure closer to mesa ahead of us. To satisfy our curiosity, we continued  on to find that it is a small rock structure, some walls collapsed; some doors, windows, and some of the roof beams still in place; and .. kitchen cabinets. Hhmm, a kitchen .. it looked like a good place for our mid-afternoon break.

Open kitchen welcoming us for our mid-afternoon break.

We heated water and enjoyed coffee and chocolate de agua, carrot sticks and apples, and peanut butter and jelly on bread from our favorite local baker, Bosque Bakery. We were joined by a group of young cattle, curious if we might have something for them.

Another great outing in the Land of Enchantment.

Statistics

Total Distance:  1.47 miles
Elevation: start  5,950 ft, maximum  5,971 ft,  minimum  5,933 ft
Gross gain:  38 ft.  Aggregate  ascending  102 ft, descending  105 ft
Maximum slope: 11% ascending, 14% descending, 2.3% average
Duration: 1:36

GPS Track Files for Download
161 Downloads
106 Downloads
111 Downloads
103 Downloads
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

Cuajimoloyas-Benito Juarez Hike – 02/05/2020

After a restful night in the very nice cabańa in Cuajimoloyas and a good breakfast with José, we headed into the pueblo to meet Efilio, our guide for the day. Then we walked to the edge of Cuajimoloyas and into the forest.

The Hike

Cuajimoloyas-Benito Juarez Hike.PatJoseEfilio.2020-02-05

We enjoyed an easy and pleasant hike on a smooth trail with a few climbs and descents. Along the way we had nice views across small valleys. Of particular interest were fields, many recently tilled, on very steep slopes. One wonders how even the cows used by the villagers for plowing could stay on the hillside and not slide or tumble down.

Nearing the end of the hike we came upon cement tanks filled with running water. Efilio explained that these were used for raising trout for food. As short distance further we encountered signs welcoming us to Benito Juarez and another sign identifying the boundary of the territory of Teotitlan de Valle, José’s home village.

At the Ecotourism office in Benito Juarez we were invited to visit Punta el Mirador, promising a high elevation (and tower) with a superb view into the valley of Oaxaca. We took a moto taxi from the village to this very popular site (especially for the locals, it seemed). After a climb up a steep trail (stairsteps in some places), we were not disappointed; we could see down into the valley and make out the city. To cap it off, after a few moments of hesitation, we walked across a long suspension bridge looking down into a deep canyon. Just more adventure.

Returning to Benito Juarez, again by moto taxi, we enjoyed another good meal, then met the taxi which would return us to Oaxaca City.

Statistics

Total Distance: 4.37 miles
Elevation: start 10,448 ft, maximum 10,448 ft, minimum 9,423 ft
Gross gain: -1,250 ft. Aggregate ascending 1,012 ft, descending 1,791 ft
Maximum slope: 27% ascending, 34% descending, 10.8% average
Duration: 3:36

GPS Track Files for Download
131 Downloads
187 Downloads
174 Downloads
106 Downloads
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

References and Resources

Two Wandering Soles: Hiking in Oaxaca’s Sierra Norte Indigenous Villages

Llano Grande-Cuajimoloyas Hike – 02/04/2020

Pat arranged this two day adventure months ago through Expediciones Sierra Norte, the organization who arranges hiking in the Pueblos Mancomunados. Our guide, José, picked us up at our place of lodging in Oaxaca City for the drive to Llano Grande. Passing through Cuajimoloyas, we stopped briefly to leave our overnight bag with the Ecotourism office (we would be staying the night in one of their cabańas). Then it was on to Llano Grande for the hike back to Cuajimoloyas.

The Hike

In Llano Grande we met our guide, Miguel, a young man (14 year old) who would be our guide for the hike. It is customary in the Pueblos Mancomunados to engage a guide for any hiking. I understand they want to avoid people becoming lost, and it is of economic benefit for the pueblos. Donning our packs, we set off. Signs welcomed us to the pueblo, to the forest trail, and pointed to other trails out of Llano Grande.

We’ve become familiar with the forest in these parts, but we encounter new experiences on each hike. For examples:

  • We passed a number of small fields, some awaiting tillage, some being tilled, some with standing crop of oats, and some harvested. This being the dry season, we could see preparations being made for planting before the rain season of May or June.
  • This area in particular is noted for having the largest of agave plants. We passed plants whose leaves were 10 feet or more in height, and plants with stalks maybe 20 feet in height. Jose pointed out that some of these agaves reproduce by starting small plants in the “nets” of the “mother” plant. In other cases, small “baby” plants are produced high on the stalk. When the stalk falls, the plants can then take root. (When an agave produces that tall stalk, it is in it’s last weeks of life; it dies thereafter.)
  • There is an amazing range of diversity in the plants in this forest. Of course, the various species of trees. Then things in the trees: bromeliads, mistletoe, hanging “mosses”. and in one case dripping pitch. Add to those the flowers in many colors. And as mentioned above, the giant agaves (which are not suitable for producing mezcal) and we saw a tepestate agave that is suitable (‘tho none are harvested in these mountains).
  • As we approached Cuajimoloyas, we came upon some tanks with clear, fresh water – trout were raised in these tanks and offered on menus in some of the pueblos in these mountains.

As the statistics show, we would classify this hike as easy (fortunately, at home we live at 5,000 feet elevation, so the altitude here was no bother). Upon arriving in Cuajimoloyas we settled in to our cabin, then went only a few yards away for a very nice ‘cena’. The next morning .. see the next post for the Cuajimoloyas-Benito Juarez Hike.

Our guide, José, is a remarkable young man. From the village of Teotitlan del Valle, his knowledge and enthusiasm made our two days with him really wonderful.

Statistics

Total Distance: 5.37 miles
Elevation: start 10,127 ft, maximum 10,560 ft, minimum 10,029 ft
Gross gain: 531 ft. Aggregate ups & downs: ascending 1,259 ft, descending 986 ft
Maximum slope: 24% ascending, 24% descending, 7.0% average
Duration: 4:15

GPS Track Files for Download
158 Downloads
117 Downloads
106 Downloads
112 Downloads
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

References and Resources

Two Soles Wandering: Hiking in Oaxaca’s Sierra Norte Indigenous Villages

 

Capulálpam de Mendéz, Pueblo Mágico Hike – 01/25/2020

We returned to Capulálpam to enjoy this Pueblo Mágico and a treatment at the Traditional Medicine Center. Oh yes, and a hike on their beautiful forest trail. Since there is no bus service and the collectivos are uncomfortable (they drive fast on the tight twisty road), we engaged a driver which made the trip much more comfortable. The conversation with Oscar added more enjoyment to the to the trip and he introduced us to very good restaurant midway on the drive to and from.

The Hike

Capulálpam Hike.PatLionel.2020-01-25

We had arranged our hike with the Ecotourism office and went there to meet our guide. Soon a group of six women arrived – we would all hike together. Hitting the tail we recognized that it would be the same trail that we hiked last year. But it was different this year – Lionel’s explanations were different and our hiking companions added another dimension.

[We had gone to Capulàlpam’s only bar the night before (we had mezcal and French fries for supper), and this group of women showed up – having a great time. We met them again on the street the next morning and exchanged greetings. Then we found them on the hike with us. They were from Cancun on holiday and having a great time including helping us understand Lionel’s explanations of medicinal plants. ]

Highlight

As noted above, we had hiked this trail last year so I won’t repeat the description. Leonel did add to our experience this year. He spent more time pointing out various plants, explaining their medicinal benefits. Important to him was the connection between our spirit and the land and all it provides. To bring the point more to home, he invited us to shed our shoes and socks and walk barefoot, to feel the earth and make a connection with it. Despite our very tender feet, we followed the lead of our companions and enjoyed the spirit of the experience. Later he invited us to crawl, hands and knees, to deepen the connection; we declined, ‘tho the ladies were game, having a good time.

Statistics

Total Distance: 3.65 miles
Elevation: start 6,815 ft, maximum 7,248 ft, minimum 6,665 ft
Gross gain: 433 ft. Aggregate ascending 1,042 ft, descending 1,084 ft
Maximum slope: 34% ascending, 35% descending, 10.0% average
Duration: 4:23

GPS Track Files for Download
101 Downloads
152 Downloads
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

References and Resources

Wikipedia: Capulálpam de Méndez
Oaxaca Cultural Navigator : Norma Schafer:
     One Day in Capulálpam de Méndez: Oaxaca’s Pueblo Mágico
Hoofing It In Oaxaca: Hiking Venues for “Hoofing It In Oaxaca”
Asi es Mi Mexico: Capulálpam de Méndez
Oaxaca Mio: Capulálpam de Mendez (Revion Sierra Norte) (Spanish)
Facebook: Centro de Medicina Tradicional Capulálpam
Oaxaca Traditional Medicine: a BLOG

Piedra Tenate Driveabout & Hike – 01/21/2020

P1040497.JPGThis was our second hike on a two day adventure in San Miguel del Valle in the Tlacolula Valley in Oaxaca. We spent the night in an Ecotourism cabin in the pueblo, then met our guide Memo for another trip into the Sierra Norte
.

The Drive In

P1040502.JPG The drive took us up a narrow dirt and gravel road that clung to the steep side of the mountains, like yesterday climbing from 5,000 feet to over 10,000. It appeared one section of the road had only recently been carved out, corroborated by the absence of that portion of the road on my topo map and on the current GoogleEarth image. A road like this carved out of the mountain gave us some spectacular views across the large canyon and down towards the open plain of Tlacolula Valley.

The Hike

P1040505.JPGParking a short distance from the highway, we hit the trail, at first a two-track with easy walking through the high altitude forest of these Sierra Norte mountains. Near the edge of a large relatively flat area, we had a superb view down into a valley leading to San Miguel. A half mile on, we left the forest for an open hillside and views into the valley in the other direction. Turning back to make a loop, we came across developments from past agrigulctural activities, including a circular enclosure of rocks that was used in time past for threshing grains.

Highlight

Highlights of this trip with Memo were the many flora that we found and admired along the way.

Statistics

Total Distance: 2.34 miles
Elevation: start 8,793 ft, maximum 8,793 ft, minimum 8,423 ft
Gross gain: 370 ft. Aggregate ascending 493 ft, descending 492 ft
Maximum slope: 33% ascending, 44% descending, 7.4% average
Duration: 2:42

GPS Track Files for Download
111 Downloads
228 Downloads
93 Downloads
99 Downloads
179 Downloads
107 Downloads
If you haven’t explored these hiking tracks with Google Earth, I urge you to try it. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the screenshot above. For some ideas, check out  Using Google Earth Track Files.

Cueva de Bandidos Driveabout and Hike – 01/20/2020

For this post, in addition to describing a Hike in the territory of the village of San Miguel del Valle in the Sierra Norte, this entry in my journal is also about the Story leading up to this adventure and the Driveabout Inbound getting to the hiking trail, and the Driveabout Outbound returning to San Miguel del Valle .

The Story

This adventure actually began two days earlier when Pat and I forayed from Oaxaca City to the Zapotec village of San Miguel del Valle to arrange an overnight trip, with hikes scheduled for both days. Our past 3 years of experience, almost always with a guide of some form, had given us sufficient confidence that, with our meager Spanish, we could 1) take public buses to San Miguel, and 2) arrange with the staff at their Ecotourism office for a cabin and hiking guide.

  • From the Baseball Stadium in Oaxaca City where one can catch transportation going east, we caught the bus to Tlacolula planning to then get a bus or a colectivo to San Miguel.
    • Colectivos provide transportation to nearly all of the villages within many miles of Oaxaca City. They are much less expensive than taxis, but collect riders until all 5 seats are filled. This can make for a less than comfortable ride; buses are generally more comfortable.
  • We got off the bus in Tlacolula and easily found the station for buses to San Miguel. After 15 or 20 minutes waiting we were on our way. In San Miguel we easily found the Ecotourism office where we hoped to make arrangements for our visit.
    • San Miguel, like all the Zapotec villages in those parts, is a cooperative community in which citizens take their turn at various jobs, much like the Pueblos in New Mexico. The two people in the Ecotourism office received us warmly but spoke no English. Even with our meager Spanish we were able to communicate our desires (a cabaña for one night and a guide for hiking on each of the two days) and we believed we had successfully completed the arrangements.
    • As our final step, we asked if we could get a guide who spoke English. They made a phone call and we were speaking with a gentlemen with excellent English. We reviewed with him what we believed we had arranged, he confirmed it all with the office members, and we scheduled to meet him two days later.

Having enjoyed such good fortune in getting to San Miguel for planning, we were ready to repeat the travel from Oaxaca City for our adventure.

  • As before, now with our packs and overnight bag, we caught a bus from the Baseball Stadium headed for Tlacolula.
  • The bus didn’t stop at the bus station as it had the other day. We realized this as it started to leave Tlacolula on its way to another nearby town; we got off the bus at the outskirts of the village to wait for a bus or colectivo going to San Miguel.
  • After waiting 20 minutes or so, we walked the half mile back to the center of town and the transportation hub, ultimately getting a ride in a colectivo.
    • We later learned that the citizens of San Miguel were in a town meeting at which everyone is expected to attend, including drivers for buses and colectivos. Thus, none were running while were waiting.
  • The colectivo deposited us in the parking lot for the Ecotourism. Our guide wasn’t waiting there for us as expected – he was in the town meeting along with everyone else. He joined us shortly, introduced us to our cabaña, and we headed out for the day’s tip into the mountains.
  • Throughout all this, everyone we encountered was friendly and helpful which we’ve found to be a universal trait of Oaxaceños.

I relate all this because it brings back memories for us (now and when we read it in the future), and also in hopes that others can use our experience as a jumping off point for your own adventures.

The Driveabout Inbound

Having met up with Memo, we first stopped by a cafe in San Miguel for lunch where we had about the best chicken soup ever. Then we headed up into the Sierra Norte in Memo’s car. After a few miles on a paved road passing through dry scrubland, we started ascending into the mountains. We soon found ourselves 1) into the forest, 2) on a road climbing steeply with a steep drop off on one side or the other, and 3) winding through sharp switchbacks.

Reaching the pueblo of Cuajimoloyas, at 10,000 feet elevation, we stopped briefly where Memo pointed out the extent of the San Miguel Parque. Each of the pueblos in these Sierra Norte mountains has jurisdiction over a defined territory which they manage for the benefit of the community. Memo had pointed out on the drive up that the road is generally the boundary between the San Miguel’s territory and the adjoining pueblo’s. The pueblos hereabouts are recognized as ecotourism destinations and have developed trails and other amenities; Memo showed us on the billboard map the trails for the San Miguel Parque.

Back in the car, we continued a bit further on paved road before turning off onto a good though seldom-used two-track,  driving through an open forest of pine, oak, and other trees. In some 2 miles we stopped for the hike for this day.

 

The HikeP1040484The weather up here high in the mountains was foggy (this is sometimes referred to as a Cloud Forest) and quite chilly and we missed the blue skies so typical this time of year. The hike began by going through some open forest, but we soon found ourselves descending into a deep, narrow, even dark canyon, winding our way between rock walls. Then we came upon a small cave, then a very large cave – the Caves of the Bandits? The trail showed regular use, even with stair steps where necessary, to climb up or down rock ledges. Further along we passed by a pool of water and more large crevices, all pointing to the advantage of this area for bandits to hide out. The climb out of the canyon was on a long stairway constructed with local materials – sections of the small diameter trunks of pine trees prevalent in the area, or steps carved in the rock.

The return trail was again through the tropical forest so prevalent in the area. Along the way we admired the many plants new to us – the huge agave plants (not suitable for making mezcal), bromeliads, a few flowers (I wonder what it is like during and after the rainy season). We finished by climbing up on a large bed of rock to look across the canyon, and as far as the fog permitted, the mountains beyond.

The Driveabout Outbound

P1040486The drive out followed a different route. Still on what appeared to be seldom used two-track in good condition, we enjoyed the scenery of this high mountain forest. We stopped at a large meadow with a lake and a few cabins constructed on the hillside above the lake; Memo told this was a favorite getaway for people from San Miguel, to come high in the mountains in summer to escape the heat in the valley. (I was late in starting the GPS track, so the the .kml file misses the first mile or so of the driveout.) The two-track brought us to the pueblo of Llano Grande where we stopped for a break before heading back down to San Miguel. This included a visit to the cafe where we enjoyed chocolate con agua and herbia te while standing around the wood-fired stove in the kitchen for the warmth. It was then back down to San Miguel for a night in their cabana.

Statistics

Total Distance: 1.06 miles
Elevation: start 9,994 ft, maximum 10,092 ft, minimum 9,933 ft
Gross gain: 99 ft. Aggregate ascending 232 ft, descending 231 ft
Maximum slope: 28% ascending, 18% descending, 7.6% average
Duration: 2:00

GPS Track Files for Download
101 Downloads
273 Downloads
103 Downloads
103 Downloads
157 Downloads
98 Downloads

I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

References and Resources

ZapoTrek: Cueva Iglesia Trip Advisor: Zapotrek Hike and Bike – Cueva Iglesia Hike

Mitla Caves Hike – 01/18/2020

The first trip to the mountains and hiking on this year’s visit to Oaxaca. While Pat attended a cooking class in Oaxaca City, I joined a group from the Oaxaca Lending Library (OLL) for an excursion to visit prehistoric caves near Mitla. From information provided by our guides and subsequent research, the caves we visited along with others in the vicinity provide a fascinating story of -very ancient- times, as long as 10,000 years ago.

The Drive In

Trips from the OLL begin at their location on the outskirts of Oaxaca City’s historic central district. Boarding a 16 passenger van, we drove southeast into the Tlacolula Valley to the village of Mitla (formally San Pablo Villa de Mitla), about 25 miles. From there we passed through the village and another three miles through arid sandy/rocky terrain towards the foothills of the Sierra Norte.

The Hike

Mitla Caves Hike.Solo.2020-01-14

Parking just off the highway, we were met by local Zapotec guides and began the hike on a quite rocky two-track that followed a dry wash towards the first hill, the edge of the Sierra Norte. Some .7 miles along, we were directed up the side of this hill following a steep tho’ well established trail (with stairs in some places).

In less that 100 yards, we were introduced to the first two of the four caves to be visited that day. The geology of the area is entirely of volcanic origin, so the caves would seem to be voids in the lava flow, opening in the nearly vertical side the deep arroyo. In this cave the guide told us there is evidence of habitation from 10,000 years ago. Among other seeds, an ancient type of corn was found in these caves. The tiny ears, which  aren’t found to exist today, were subjected to carbon dating to determine their date. (Other reference sources, some listed below, substantiate the claim. When asked about further scientific or archeological studies in these caves, the guides told us no serious work has yet been done.)

Continuing on upward, we visited the 3rd cave which had a few symbols painted in red on the walls; we were told to expect more paintings in the 4th cave.  And we were not disappointed – the walls of this 4th cave were lined with numerous paintings. The group had great fun (with the help of the guides) trying to interpret the images, to imagine what they might have meant to the people who made them.

Being careful on the steep, rocky, sometimes slippery trail, we returned to the van and to Oaxaca City.

Statistics

Total Distance:  2.26 miles
Elevation: start  5,631 ft, maximum 5,964 ft,  minimum 5,631 ft
Gross gain:  333 ft.  Aggregate ascending 1,255 ft, descending 1,261 ft
Maximum slope: 40% ascending, 39% descending, 9.3% average
Duration: 2:07

GPS Track Files for Download
112 Downloads
105 Downloads
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

References and Resources

UNESCO: Prehistoric Caves of yagul and Mitla in the Central Valley of Oaxaca
                   Yagul and Mitla in the Central Valley of Oaxaca (Mexico) (PDF)
Latin America & Caribbean Geographic: Prehistoric Caves of Yagul and Mitla …
Andrew Lawler: The Oldest Ritual