The 3rd day of a camping trip in the Jemez Mountains with the R-Pod at the Jemez Falls Campground. After two days of longer hikes, we planned this to be an easy one. We chose to explore the canyon of the East Fork Jemez River for which we had no references about it’s traversability.
The Drive In
We parked at the Las Conchas picnicking and fishing area, where the River crosses under the highway to the south of NM 4. (This is a quarter mile east of the Las Conchas Trailhead, and is a favorite place for rock climbers to practice climbing on the rock face just east of the parking area.)
The Hike
Las Conchas-East Hike.Pat.2020-10-15
We first headed directly the stream from the parking lot. A couple of hundred yards along we faced the end of any path in that direction on this south side of the stream, but we noticed signs of a trail on the other side. Backtracking west beyond the picnic area we discovered a way to get across and onto the trail.For some distance the canyon was wide enough for both the stream and a trail. But then we encountered rocks over which we had to climb. Soon we encountered a sheer cliff that extended down to the water. This required crossing the stream; fortunately there were a couple of ways across including a 2×8 board. After crossing, we continued on the south side of the stream until encountering another cliff-to-stream, this time without a means of crossing without wading.
Since we had not planned for a full hike (we didn’t even bring our packs), we turned back promising that we would come back here again. Upon reaching a point opposite the east end of the picnic area, we took the chance of crossing on rocks in the stream – neither of us slipped or lost our balance and succeeded in returning the the picnic/fishing area.
Statistics
Total Distance: 1.07 miles
Elevation: start 8,426 ft, maximum 8,500 ft, minimum 8,410 ft
Gross gain: 90 ft. Aggregate ascending 537 ft, descending 534 ft
Maximum slope: 66% ascending, 65% descending, 14% average
Duration: 1:10
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
This was our third hike on a 5-day camping trip to the Jemez Mountains with our R-Pod at Jemez Falls Campground. ‘Tis a quite nice campground central in the Jemez Mountains and close to the Valles Caldera. There are many great hiking trails nearby, both “formal” (established by USFS or someone) and informal (hikes that we’ve taken through interesting canyons and atop mesas).
The Drive In
From the campground, drive east on NM 4 for 4.5 miles, the 1st bridge over the Jemez River where you will find a 10-car parking lot on the left (north). The trail begins at this parking lot.
The Hike
Las Conchas Trail Hike.Pat.2020-09-23
This was a return to the Las Conchas Trail for Pat and me (see Previous Posts below). It is such a lovely trail following the East Fork of the Jemez River. The flowing stream is bounded on each side by steep slopes and cliffs, and the valley bottom is lush with grasses, flowering plants, and ponderosa pine and other healthy trees.
We started down the river, enjoying the ambience of this beautiful place. In the back of our mind, we thought we would be able to reach the “other side” of The Box, where we had hiked in the past. About half a mile in, we noticed a trail that ascended the ridge on the left (south) of the river. Thinking that might allow to get beyond The Box, we climbed up on the ridge and found ourselves on a trail for 1.5 miles; we discovered this was East Fork Trail No. 137. It was at this point, also, that we saw on the topo a trail that descended into the river cañon. Ah ha, down to The Box.
We enjoyed an easy descent into the bottom of the cañon, and saw what we took to be the upstream side of The Box. (A bit of explanation here: hiking from the west to The Box, it had appeared to us that there was no easy way to get from the downstream side of The Box to the upstream side. So it was logical, we were now on that upstream side. More explanation to follow.) Back in the cañon we found ourselves back on the Las Conchas trail No. 137. Proceeding upstream, we were again enjoying the lush, colorful foliage between the cañon walls along East Fork Jemez River. Nearing the trailhead, we stopped for our mid-hike break/lunch – what a beautiful autumn day in the Jemez Mountains.
Epilog
Ok, here’s the “more later”. Trail No. 137, East Fork Jemez River trail, goes from Battleship Rock (way west on NM 4) to the Las Conchas Trailhead. For most of the distance it remains above the Jemez River; it descends into the river canyon to join the end of the Las Conchas Trail. As for how close were we to the box? It would be close to 1.5 miles further on the East Fork Jemez River trail.
We have wondered – could one go the length, from The Box to the Conchas Trail remaining in the River canyon? One would be required to get around what appears to be a blockage at each end. On our East Fork Jemez Box Hike, it was apparent that we would have to wade in the river to pass through a narrow passage between huge boulders. And at the end of the Las Conchas Trail Hike there was a similar blockage for continuing in the canyon. Maybe someone will comment to address the question or … we might try it one day.
Statistics
Total Distance: 4.1 miles
Elevation: start 8,411 ft, maximum 8,641 ft, 8,328 minimum ft
Gross gain: 313 ft. Aggregate ascending 1,153 ft, descending 1,152 ft
Maximum slope: 27% ascending, 35% descending, 7.9% average
Duration: 4:34
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
Our 2nd hike on a 5-day camping trip to the Jemez Mountains with Jay and Nancy. We set up camp in the Jemez Falls Campground, a very nice Forest Service campground in the middle of the Jemez Mountains and close to Valles Caldera. Nearby are great hiking opportunities – for all skill levels, any distances.
The Drive In
From the campground, drive east to the entrance to the Valles Caldera National Preserve. There is only one road into the Preserve which takes one to the Visitor Center. To proceed beyond this point one must register (and may be required to pay an access fee, ‘tho in recent months the fees have been waived). After receiving your Pass, you will be allowed to lower the entrance cable and proceed into the Preserve.
The trailhead for this hike is in the northwestern corner of Valles Caldera. Within the Preserve, vehicles must remain on the two roads. From the Visitors Center, VC01 goes northwest between Valle Grande the lava domes Cerro La Jara and South Mountain to the Cabin District. (Among the buildings there is the ranch house featured in the series “Longmire”.) From there, VC02 proceeds northeast, about 10 miles to a T intersection with VC09. To continue for hiking downstream on San Antonio Creek, turn left on VC09 – 4 miles to park at the end of allowed access.
The Hike
Valle De San Antonio Hike.PatJayNancy.2020-09-22
This is may be the most beautiful area of Valles Caldera. We parked at the end of access on VC-09, then continued on foot in the wide valley of San Antonio Creek. We enjouyed magnificent views of the surrounding lava domes: to the south Cerro Seco and San Antonio Mountain, and to the north and west the rim of the Caldera. About a mile along the old roadbed of VC-09 we crossed the bridge over San Antonio Creek, and then .. the rain showers that had sprung up around the area caught up with us. We repaired up the slope and found a ponderosa pine that gave us some protection from the rain and popcorn hail shower.
After about 45 minutes pinned down by the shower, we returned to VC-09 to continue our hike. A quarter of a mile on we passed out of the Preserve and onto FR 376 which followed the contour of the caldera rim 60 feet or so above the floor of the valley. The view of the Creek from this vantage point is beautiful. In another half mile we found ourselves at the base of the road Jay and I had taken down from FR 144 for the San Antonio Canyon North Hike back in 2017. We chose to turn back here, but take a route along the Creek itself.
Of interest to us in the creek were the artificial “beaver dams” that were being constructed when Pat & I hiked here back in 2019 (Valle de San Antonio Hike – 09/11/2019). Work had been completed and the posts with willow woven between them were intact .. but no sign of beaver (yet).
The track along the river is most pleasant, with the green grasses, recently planted willows (within exclosures for protection), and the gently flowing stream. The trail is easy walking, ‘tho with one place where the artificial dam had backed up water over the trail necessitating a detour up the slope a bit. About midway back towards the parking area, the trail returns to the road and across the bridge. Proceeding north on VC-09, the view across the wide valley of San Antonio Creek is splendid. All in all, this hike easily makes it worth the extra drive from the Valles Caldera entrance.
Jay here: Wouldn’t you know it. Hail storm again. Nancy and I had been partway on the road into the caldera but never to the end where this hike began. It’s a long ride. Seems longer on the way out after a long hike. A lot of downed trees throughout which is a bit sad but the regeneration is already underway so that’s a positive sign. Nancy found some rusty gems to take back, so it was worth the trek.
Highlight
A slide show of the beautiful vista views of the Valle de San Antonio.
Statistics
Total Distance: 4.35 miles
Elevation: start 8,390 ft, maximum 8,474 ft, minimum 8,326 ft
Gross gain: 148 ft. Aggregate ascending 618 ft, descending 618 ft
Maximum slope: 40% ascending, 42% descending, 04.8% average
Duration: 3:35
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
This is our first hike on a 5-day camping trip to the Jemez Mountains with friends Jay and Nancy. We set up camp in the Jemez Falls Campground, a very nice Forest Service campground in the middle of the Jemez Mountains and close to Valles Caldera. Nearby are great hiking opportunities, for all skill levels, any distanc
The Drive In
The trailhead is 13 miles east of the Jemez Falls Campground on NM 4. There is a large parking area on the north side of the road at the trailhead. (Across the road are trailheads for other trails going south into the upper reaches of Bandelier, also good hiking.)
The Hike
Cerro Grande Trail Hike.PatJayNancy.2020-09-21
This is a favorite trail for Pat & me, and we were pleased to bring Jay and Nancy here. On the way to the trailhead, we stopped to enjoy the tremendous view across Valle Grande, the main valley yet comprising less than 10% of the Caldera as a whole. — We did not see any elk in the Valle this morning, although often one can see one or many herds in the distance (a couple of miles – the Valle is so huge they are only dots on the valley floor.)
The first half mile of the trail is a gentle slope through open forest; like all of the trail, it is well used, makes for easy walking. From there on the slope is a bit greater but I would never classify it as steep, although at times it is on a hillside with a 50° slope. Topping the saddle (about 2/3rd to the summit) we paused to enjoy a great view west across the Valle to the far rim of the volcano and mountains south and west.
From here the trail is in open grassland except for 300 or 400 yards of open forest on the east slope of Cerro Grande. We had been watching the formation of rain cells coming from the northwest. Some went around us, but our luck ran out and precipitation began with small, soft hailstones (or were they large popcorn snow). We sought shelter in what appeared to be the last ponderosa pine on the way to the summit; it was just large enough to keep us almost dry.
The shower cells were moving slowly – some 50 minutes later that cell passed on and we headed down, foregoing those last yards to the summit (it is, after all, not a peak but a gentle mountain top). Though it remained cloudy, the hike back down was dry.
Highlight
The best I can do here is — the snow/rain quit after about 50 minutes while we huddled under a tree. We were able to return to the trailhead in dry conditions and enjoy our mid-hike break a couple of hundred yards from the parking area.
Jay here: Well, highlight is one word for it. Hail, hail, the gang’s all here, under a tree. What the heck do we care? It’s small comfort that hail storms are typical this time of year at 9k feet. You still wait for the lightning to hit the tree you are standing under. Now that’s a highlight. The sunshine at the start and the super saturated light at the end of the hike are all you have to see to experience the contrast. Great hike, great company. It’s like the analogy of who you would want to share a foxhole with…and not get killed.
Statistics
Total Distance: 4.24 miles
Elevation: start 8,959 ft, maximum 10,110 ft, minimum 8,956 ft
Gross gain: 1,154 ft. Aggregate ascending 1,325 ft, descending 1,327 ft
Maximum slope: 26% ascending, 26% descending, 10.7% average
Duration: 4:47
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
This is our 2nd hike on this camping trip into the Jemez Mountains, camping in the Redondo Campground (see notes from the hike the day before). We ventured again into the southwestern corner of Valles Caldera, with a plan to explore the canyon that goes east out of Redondo Meadow. Without published trails to guide us, we went a-orienteering.
The Hike
Valles Caldera-Banco Bonito Hike.Pat.2020-07-22The 2-track descent from Banco Bonito into Redondo Meadow.
Using our lesson from yesterday about orienteering, we set placemarks on USTopo, ready to read (and follow) bearings. We planned to descend into Redondo Meadow on the same 2-track we used the day before – a bearing of 130° from the campsite. Again with yesterday’s experience regarding the topography, we worked our way around the steeper mounds/ridges (see the featured image above). Soon enough found ourselves on a 2-track that took us to the descent. Along the way we came across the last remains of two log structures, presumably from the days of the Baca Ranch (see the references below for more on the Baca Ranch and the history of Valles Grande).
Thick grass on the edge between forest and meadow.
On reaching the Meadow, we skirted its southern boundary where we had some shade, then continued on into the canyon. We looked for the coyote of yesterday, but didn’t see him. However … not far from yesterday’s encounter, we startled a coyote pup; he scampered in front of us up and over a mound. I dashed up to the top of the mound to find a large tunnel and no sign of the pup; it must have gone into its den.
Entering the canyon we found ourselves near a Class 4 2-track, identified as VC-02. We remained in the open forest for half a mile or so. As the ground started rising and the canyon was narrowing, we hiked on the 2-track itself. We didn’t have a specific destination, only the length of the hike ..and.. a plan to return to the campground before the rain showers that were forecast for the afternoon. Thus, a mile up, where we found the first sign of any running water in this canyon, we stopped for our first mid-hike break.
2-track back up onto Banco Bonito.
We had kept an eye out as we came from our descent 2-track for any other 2-tracks that would take us back up on Banco Bonito. We had seen one across the canyon, so headed for it. But … just a few yards from our break spot, we spotted a 2-track that traversed the edge back up onto Banco. We took it – a 130′ easy climb. Back on top, we returned to orienteering – bearing and compass. In a quarter of a mile, we found ourselves on a nice Class 4 2-track. As we suspected, it generally followed the edge of Banco, with intersections to other descending 2-tracks. At one point we did take a couple of right turns to keep our course along that edge. After the 2nd turn, we intercepted the 2-track we had taken outbound; from there we generally retracedthat track. And, BTW, no more than a few seconds after we got back in the R-Pod, the rain started and it rained hard for 15-20 minutes.
Our Experience
We learned a lot the day before on our Redondo Meadow Hike. Our navigating (reconnoitering) was much better getting to our chosen destinations, and the increased confidence in finding our down into Redondo Meadow and back up onto Banco Bonito made the day more relaxed. A new focus was figuring out the identifications of the various 2-tracks that we came across. At most of the intersections there were somewhat newer signs identifying roads, and in 2 instances older signs announcing trail names (and for 1 there were turn and straight ahead arrows). It will be for a future update to his post to report on these sighs.
Statistics
Total Distance: 6.39 miles
Elevation: start 8,153 ft, maximum 8,650 ft, minimum 8,054 ft
Gross gain: 596 ft. Aggregate ascending 1,253 ft, descending 1,255 ft
Maximum slope: 34% ascending, 28% descending, 5.8% average
Duration: 5:32
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
Our second hike during a 3-night stay at Jemez Falls Campground. We put this trail on our to-do list on recent hikes such as Cerro Grande and Upper Frijoles Cañon Overlook.
The Hike
The initial third of a mile or so, the trail goes through pleasant, healthy, open forest. ‘Tis not well used, so in some places it is difficult to find the trail’s path. But the trail -is- well marked with blazes on trees – there is nearly always one is in view. This was true for the whole trail, except where the ‘blazed’ tree had been blown down. (We presume this trail has been used for cross country skiing, thus the blazes.)
However, after that initial stretch of the trail, we found ourselves in a forest that has been ‘blown down’. That is, -many- trees have been toppled in recent months, literally uprooted. Many of them have fallen across the trail dictating we straddling over the trunk, crawl under it, or go around it.
Beyond half a mile, fallen and burned trees were everywhere, ‘tho scrub oak and aspen were making a great comeback. The trail at times approaches the edge and provides a view to the east, into and across Cañon de los Frijoles. Further along it appears to have been a two track, now overgrown with with plant life making a comeback.
The remnants of the fire years ago, the toppled trees in the major windstorm this past spring, and the overgrown trail, Sawyer Mesa Trail is not our favorite. With some major trail maintenance, in a few years when the area has recovered from the results of these events, it may become a nice trail, but not now.
Statistics
Total Distance: 4.62 miles Elevation: start 8,977 ft, maximum 8,978 ft, minimum 8,728 ft Gross gain: 250 ft. Aggregate ascending 591 ft, descending 591 ft Maximum slope: 12% ascending, 14% descending, 3,9% average Duration: 5:06
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
Another 3 night camping trip to the Jemez, setting up the R-Pod in the Jemez Falls Campground. This is truly a great time of year to go camping and hiking in the Jemez Mountains. We’re fortunate that we can go during the week (weekends can be crowded); there are many good campsites to choose from whether with camper or tent camping. Days are warm, nights cool; we enjoyed 80s daytime, around 50 at night. This year the monsoon season seems to be lasting longer so we did have some rain in the afternoon and evening.
The Drive In
For our first day’s hiking we returned to Valles Caldera National Preserve – destination: the end of the road in northwest corner and a hike into the upper section of San Antonio Cañon. After getting our pass/permit at the Visitors Center, we drove the 17 miles through this beautiful scenery – the 4 mile view across Valle Grande, the mountains all around, the drive through Valle Jaramillo and into the wide open Valle de San Antonio. This itself is worth our visit every time we go. A gate blocks further travel onto a two-track, where we parked to begin the hike.
The Hike
Valle de San Antonio Hike.Pat.2019-09-11
The beginning of the hike is on an old two-track. Topping a couple ridges, we enjoyed views of San Antonio Creek to our right, and looking ahead we could see the cliffs that form the western edge of San Antonio Cañon.
A mile on we crossed the Creek on the berm over a large culvert and continued on the two track with a great view of the Creek and the Cañon ahead of us. The two-track continued on the western slope of this upper end of the Cañon, and from maps we could see that it is identified as FR 376 which continues all the way to NM 4 (‘tho it may be not passable, and I recall there is a closed gate at NM 4).
Two miles on we encountered folks with a tracked machine down along the river, and a most pleasant young woman driving a fork lift loaded with 10-12 foot long poles. She took time from her work to answer questions, and explained that she was a “wetlands restoration engineer”.
Our first question: what is the purpose of the 10′ tall fences around sections of the river? She explained that they are “exclosures”, to keep elk and other grazing animals from the marsh and grass land along the stream, thus giving the native plants protection so they may recover. She went on to say that they are planting willow and cottonwood trees (protected further with ‘chicken fence’ around the young plants), with the goal of restoring the wetlands to their natural state.
A BDA – beaver dam analogue.
Next, we asked – what is the “construction” work they are performing? She explained that they are building “beaver dam analogues” (BDAs) with the goal of attracting beaver back to the creek. These BDAs are constructed by driving the poles in the creek bottom, across the creek, then weaving willow boughs through the poles to create a dam. This will give the beaver a head start on -their- dam, and over time they will make it their home. We saw more than half a dozen such BDAs along this 1 mile stretch of San Antonio Creek.
From here we descended down to creekside and entered a couple of the exclosures where we enjoyed the ambience of the running water, lush marsh grass, and recently planted willow saplings. And .. having been alerted to the fact, we saw a -real- beaver dam further upstream. This valley will look quite different in coming years.
Returning to the two-track from a nice walk along the creek, to return to the truck.
Finding it a bit challenging to walk ‘off trail’, we returned to the two-track and headed back to the truck; it was getting late and one must return to the Visitor’s Center by 5:30 (17 miles, at least a half hour). We drove part way where we stopped at the turnoff to Obsidian Valley for lunch, then checked in at the Visitor’s Center and to returned to Jemez Falls Campground for the night.
Footnote: When we encountered the restoration crew, we noticed that access to the creek was afforded by a two-track descending from the western side of the cañon. Reviewing maps and previous hikes, I realized that it descends from FR 144 and was used by Jay and me on a hike back in 2017. (Further note: from here, it is only a 2 mile hike downstream to the San Antonio Hot Springs.)
Statistics
Total Distance: 4.49 miles Elevation: start 8,390 ft, maximum 8,474 ft, minimum 8,316 ft Gross gain: 158 ft. Aggregate ascending 602 ft, descending 602 ft Maximum slope: 16% ascending, 17% descending, 04.3% average Duration: 2:47
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
This hike isn’t technically in the Valles Caldera National Preserve, but it is so close – we’re associating them. And this Las Conchas Trail on the East Fork of the Jemez River has intrigued us for some time, but we were always on our way to somewhere else when going past it. We’re -very- happy that we stopped – it’s an amazing place.
The Drive In
The Las Conchas Trailhead is just off of NM 4, 10 miles east from La Cueva. There is parking on the left (north) side of the road for 10 or so vehicles. (This parking is a quarter of a mile west of a popular rock climbing wall; folks also climb sections of the wall downstream from the Trailhead).
The Hike
East Fork Jemez River Hike.Pat.2019-07-26
As soon as we left the parking area, we found ourselves in what was almost a tropical forest. The grasses, flowering plants, shrubs, trees, mosses, everything is very lush. Both of us tried valiantly to capture this beautiful, amazing place on “film”, but .. you must be there to fully appreciate what Mother Nature has created here.
The cañon is narrow and deep with steep walls. Through the middle flows the East Fork of the Jemez River, having come out of Valle Grande of the Valles Caldera just a mile or so upstream. This is a popular place, evidenced by the wide and well-worn trail; it crosses the River a few times — on bridges (no wading required). This summer the trail is closed somewhere beyond 1.5 miles (despite what the sign says about 1.25 miles); someday we’ll continue on down the River to the Box (we’ve hiked to the Jemez Box a couple of times from the other direction).
As mentioned above, the cañon is lush with many kinds of flowers. I’ve been collecting photos of flowers on all our hikes these past 5 or 6 years, and here along the Jemez River there are the usual suspects, plus a couple that I had not seen before.
Total Distance: 2.88 miles Elevation: start 8,413 ft, maximum 8,437 ft, minimum 8,327 ft Gross gain: 110 ft. Aggregate ascending 936 ft, descending 935 ft Maximum slope: 49% ascending, 55% descending, 9.1% average Duration: 2:59
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
We’ve been looking forward to visiting the northern part of Valles Caldera; we visited it a few days before – Valles Caldera Driveabout – which piqued our interest. Because I was dealing with a sore foot, we chose an easy hike in the northwest corner of the Caldera, following VC-09 in Valle San Antonio.
The Drive In
The drive in to Valle San Antonio is described in my earlier post, Valles Caldera Driveabout. For this hike, we turned left (west) on VC08, parked where VC09/the pipeline intersects 08.
The Hike
VC09 Valle San Antonio Hike.Pat.2019-07-25
Then we headed west on a very easy two-track, up and over a couple of small hills. As we proceeded, we watched cumulus clouds congeal into rain showers, with just a bit of lightning, some 3-5 miles to the west. When another cell began to form to the south, we decided to turn back, avoiding getting caught in a rain shower (and away from the lightning). We did take the opportunity as we turned back to climb a small hill which afforded a great view of the valley.
Statistics
Total Distance: 2.7 miles Elevation: start 8,506ft, maximum 8,518 ft, minimum 8,402 ft Gross gain: 116 ft. Aggregate ascending 357 ft, descending 357 ft “Maximum slope: 24% ascending, 25% descending, 4.8% average Duration: 1:47
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
My brother, Garth, came to visit us for a week. After a few days of working together on the cabin (the usual excuse for him to come to New Mexico), on Sunday with Pat we headed to the Jemez Mountains and Valles Caldera for some cooler temperatures and the scenery. Checking in at the Visitors Center of the Valles Caldera National Preserve, we learned that the culvert that was washed out this past winter had been repaired and we could drive further into the Caldera – just what we were hoping for.
The Drive from Albuquerque to Valles Caldera
For those who haven’t visited this territory, here is a screenshot of the drive from home in Albuquerque to the entrance to the Valles Caldera National Preserve. It is an 81 mile drive, via I-25 northbound to Bernalillo (19 miles), then US 550 northwest bound to San Ysidro (23 miles). From there north on NM 4, through Jemez Pueblo, Jemez Springs, and La Cueva (26 miles), then to the entrance to Valles Caldera National Preserve (13 miles). To explore it further, download the GoogleEarth .KML file from the link below. [A note: don’t exceed the 30 mph speed limit in the Jemez Pueblo; their police are serious and enforce the limit.]
Valles Caldera Driveabout.PatGarth.2019-07-14
This drive itself is worth a day trip. After Bernalillo, the scenery is interesting ‘tho distant – White Mesa ahead, the red and rugged Mesa Cuchilla a bit to the right, and the Jemez Mountains off to the north. A few miles up NM 4 you will pass through the Jemez Pueblo (keep your speed below 30 mph), then a few more miles through Walatowa where the red cliffs dominate the view; the Walatowa Visitors Center is worth a visit. Along the way NM 4 follows the Jemez River with numerous parking areas for fishing (and a Forest Service campground – Vista Linda).
Leaving Walatowa and passing the Jemez Valley High School you will enter the narrow Cañon de San Diego with Mesa de Guadelupe and then Virgin Mesa on your left, and Mesa de las Casas and then Cat Mesa on your right, rising vertically from the Jemez River. NM 4 winds its way up the cañon to Jemez Springs, an interesting small village with restaurants, a truly old-time bar (Los Ojos), and a new tap room (Second Alarm Brewhouse, a “new-time” bar?). Continuing on NM 4 you will be climbing to higher elevations (and cooler temperatures), passing Soda Dam, more fishing spots, Battle Ship Rock, and … then on your right the tallest cliffs so far. Shortly you will reach La Cueva, really just a crossroad with a general store, and .. Nomad Mountain Pizza, where you will find a really great pizza (check online for their days and hours of business).
From La Cueva the climb continues – the road is ascending the southwest rim of Valles Caldera (La Cueva 7,800 ft, . About 5.5 miles from La Cueva you will make the first crossing of the East Fork Jemez River (in Cajete Cañon), and a half mile further trailheads for the East Fork Trail; the trail goes west towards McCauley Warm Springs, and east to the Jemez River Box – both make great hikes. From there the road takes you along the southern section of the rim and then down into into the Caldera. As you break out into the open, you will enjoy a grand view of Valle Grande – it is awesome. (Beware: the space of Valle Grande is so open and vast that it thoroughly confounds one’s sense of distances.)
(A note: I overheard a Forest Service Ranger at the Visitors Center point out that this Valle Grande -is only a small part the the Caldera. From NM 4 the distance to the far side of the Valle is only 4.3 miles to the north, 5.5 miles to the northeast. The diameter of the Caldera is more that 12 miles.)
The DriveAbout in Valles Caldera
As noted above, on our previous visits we weren’t able to drive past a washed-out culvert. Since then, repairs had been completed so we could drive into Valle San Antonio, the northern portion of the Caldera (screenshot below). Driving beyond the Visitors Center requires a pass and .. a promise to be back at the Center 30 minutes before closing (5:30 during regular summer hours). The road, VC01 from the Center then VC02 heading north, is well maintained (for a graded gravel road in New Mexico). It is certainly suitable for ‘street vehicles’ (high-clearance not required – just take it slow on the rocky and washboard sections). Again – distances are hard to judge – the drive from the Visitors Center to the junction with VC09 in Valle San Antonio will require 45 minutes or longer (important for planning, to as to be sure to return to the Center by 5:30).
The drive from NM4 is downhill all the way, but the view across the Valle is stunning. From here one can often see herds of elk out in the Valle – they appear so small because they are so far away. As you approach the Visitors Center, slow down for the Prairie Dogs.
Driving west from the Visitors Center (again, drive slow, watch for the prairie dogs) you will enter the Cabin District, a collection of ranch buildings from the days when this was a working ranch. The Caldera has been the set for many movies and TV series, notable among them The Lone Ranger (2013) and Longmire (2012-2017). Garth is standing in front of the cabin that was the centerpiece for Longmire.
Proceeding north on VC02, the road gains elevation and the full extent of Valles Grande becomes apparent. The Visitors Center shrinks in the distance. Some 2 miles from the Cabin District, you will pass a road down to the Horse Corral. Then around a curve into Valle Jaramillo and across the Creek (same name); this was the washed out culvert.
Continuing on VC02 north in Valle Jaramillo between smaller mountains in the reserve, the view opens up again to the west. Jaramill Creek is bounded by lush grasses (and we have seen people fishing for trout in the creek. Some 6 miles further on you will enter into Valle San Antonio, much larger than Valle Jaramillo. Another mile or so you will come to a T in the road, with VC09 going east and west from this junction. We opted to go east, for just a short distance – time was approaching when we needed to head back to the Visitors Center before 5:30.
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.
We parked at the Las Conchas picnicking and fishing area, where the River crosses under the highway to the south of NM 4. (This is a quarter mile east of the Las Conchas Trailhead, and is a favorite place for rock climbers to practice climbing on the rock face just east of the parking area.)
For some distance the canyon was wide enough for both the stream and a trail. But then we encountered rocks over which we had to climb. Soon we encountered a sheer cliff that extended down to the water. This required crossing the stream; fo
rtunately there were a couple of ways across including a 2×8 board. After crossing, we continued on the south side of the stream until encountering another cliff-to-stream, this time without a means of crossing without wading.
ot planned for a full hike (we didn’t even bring our packs), we turned back promising that we would come back here again. Upon reaching a point opposite the east end of the picnic area, we took the chance of crossing on rocks in the stream – neither of us slipped or lost our balance and succeeded in returning the the picnic/fishing area.
