Category Archives: Activities

Categories – activities.

Middle Fork Lake Trail Hike – 8/23/2019

This is our second hike during grandson Thomas’ visit and while camping at the Columbine Campground on the Red River (near the town of Red River NM).

The Drive In

To get to the trailhead, drive through Red River on NM 578 and continue to the end of the pavement. Then continue on the first road to the right, Forest Road 58; because of recent rains this somewhat rough gravel road had water running down the road in some sections. (A high clearance vehicle is preferable, but there were “street” autos in the parking lot.) Continue  for a bit more than a mile to the parking lot. The trail proceeds from there.

The Hike

Middle Fork Lake Hike.PatThomas.2019-08-23

There are signs and a gate announcing the trail, “Access to Middle Fork Lake”. The trail is a two track (now closed to vehicle traffic) that makes for easy walking. Since I’ve been collecting photos of flowers, and always on the lookout for flowers I’ve not seen before, we challenged Thomas to find one that is new to me.  We hadn’t gone 100 yards when he pointed to a plant going to seed – and a -new- one to me. (And further on in the hike he pointed out another new one, and paused to inspect 3 or 4 interesting mushrooms.)

The trail follows closely the Middle Fork of the Red River and crosses the stream some a couple of times. The first crossing is on a bridge just a few hundred yards from the trailhead. Because of the steep ascent of the canyon, there are many cascades and waterfalls which add to the scenery, both visible and audible. About 1.25 miles along, another river crossing presents itself, this one without a bridge. Logs have been put in place and with hiking poles we successfully crossed to the ‘other side’. (With only 1 set of poles, we did have to throw them back to the next person to cross, ‘tho Thomas with his good balance could well have made it without the poles.)

After making the bridgeless crossing, the trail departs the river canyon and heads uphill, not too steep but the trail has to make another 700 ft gain in that last 1 mile (10,186 ft elevation to 10,849 ft). Along the trail is very nice forest: grasses, shrubs, ferns, flowers, mosses, mushrooms, and healthy ponderosa and douglas fir, many with spanish moss hanging from their branches. And the goal, the Lake, adds a very nice reward for the 1,229 ft climb and makes a most pleasant setting for our mid-hike break (which with Pat’s preparations has become more of a light lunch – a large cup of raman, PB&J sandwiches, and coffee).

The return to parking was uneventful .. well not quite – the customary mountain showers showed up, raining enough that we donned rain gear for a few minutes. Then safely across the log crossing again, we headed down the the truck and into Red River for a beer (and root beer float for Thomas).

Statistics

Total Distance: 4.69
Elevation: start  9,636 ft, maximum  10,863 ft,  minimum  9,634 ft
Gross gain:  1,229 ft.  Aggregate ascending  1,761 ft, descending  1,761 ft
Maximum slope: 41% ascending, 39% descending, 10.9% average
Duration: 5:42

GPS Track Files for Download
111 Downloads
164 Downloads
If you haven’t explored these hiking tracks with Google Earth, I urge you to try it. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the screenshot above. For some ideas, check out  Using Google Earth Track Files.

References and Resources

USDA Forest Service: Middle Fork/West Fork Road Trail 487
AllTrails: Middle Fork Lake Trail
TripAdvisor: Middle Fork Lake
DougScottArt: Middle Fork Lake Falls

Columbine Trail Hike – 08/22/2019

Grandson Thomas came for a weeks-long visit. Our original plan was to take the R-Pod to the Coal Mine Campground on Mount Taylor, visit El Malpais Lava Tubes and climb to the peak of Mount Taylor. After the advance visit to the Lava Tubes, and with weather forecast to be -hot-, we went instead to Red River, NM. We found our way to the Columbine Campground (Forest Service) and found a walk-in campsite that was ideal.

The Drive In

After a good night’s rest and a cool start to the day (42 degrees at daybreak), we set out to take a “short”, easy hike up the Columbine Trail. The trailhead is at the south end of the campground and proceeds up Columbine Canyon, following Columbine Creek.

The Hike

Columbine Trail Hike.PatThomas.2019-08-22

The trail is well used – we saw only a few hikers on the way up. (During our return, we did meet a large group of teenagers who were staying in the group campground.) The trail does make for an “easy” hike: it is wide with a surface for easy walking and a gentle slope/elevation gain. The combination of easy going and such pleasant surroundings – we ended up going further than planned. Having not planned on a full  hike, we didn’t have the usual mid-hike vitctules, but none-the-less, we paused for a while in a nice meadow before heading back to the campground.

Two features of the Trail and Canyon contributed to our enjoyment: being constantly near the stream, hearing the rush of water and seeing the many cascades and small waterfalls, and the abundance of interesting flowers, mosses, lichen, even butterflies. As a result, we frequently paused to admire things around us, and to take photos in hopes of being able to convey to others what we were experiencing (and for our own memories).

We had planned this for a short hike to leave time to visit Red River and to attend a Chuckwagon Supper and a concert by Michael Martin Murphey at his Rocking 3M Ranch. This made for a really enjoyable evening – good food, wonderful music, in a beautiful place.

Statistics

Total Distance:  3.07 miles
Elevation: start  7,917 ft, maximum  8,324 ft,  minimum  7,910 ft
Gross gain:  414 ft.  Aggregate ascending  910 ft, descending  916 ft
Maximum slope: 39% ascending, 37% descending, 9.0% average
Duration: 2:44

GPS Track Files for Download
114 Downloads
103 Downloads
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

References and Resources

The Campground:
    USDA Forest Service: Columbine Campground
    Recreation.gov: Columbine Campground (Nm)
    TheDyrt: Columbine Campground (Nm) (reviews)

The Trail:
    USDA Forest Service: Columbine Canyon Trail #71
    AllTrails: Columbine Trail

This is a collection of photos of plant life that makes these hikes in the New Mexico mountains so fascinating. The colors of the things growing catch our attention and we stop often to admire them, and attempt to capture them in photos. This collection has flowers we encountered (it was late in the summer, we imagine there are many more a month ago), brightly colorful leaves and berries, interesting lichen and mosses, and the most interesting patterns of bark on the aspen and fir trees.

Las Conchas Trail Hike – 07/26/2019

This hike isn’t technically in the Valles Caldera National Preserve, but it is so close – we’re associating them. And this Las Conchas Trail on the East Fork of the Jemez River has intrigued us for some  time, but we were always on our way to somewhere else when going past it. We’re -very- happy that we stopped – it’s an amazing place.

The Drive In

The Las Conchas Trailhead is just off of NM 4, 10 miles east from La Cueva. There is  parking on the left (north) side of the road for 10 or so vehicles. (This parking is a quarter of a mile west of a popular rock climbing wall; folks also climb sections of the wall downstream from the Trailhead).

The Hike

East Fork Jemez River Hike.Pat.2019-07-26

As soon as we left the parking area, we found ourselves in what was almost a tropical forest. The grasses, flowering plants, shrubs, trees, mosses, everything is very lush. Both of us tried valiantly to capture this beautiful, amazing place on “film”, but .. you must be there to fully appreciate what Mother Nature has created here.

The cañon is narrow and deep with steep walls. Through the middle flows the East Fork of the Jemez River, having come out of Valle Grande of the Valles Caldera just a mile or so upstream. This is a popular place, evidenced by the wide and well-worn trail; it crosses the River a few times —  on bridges (no wading required). This summer the trail is closed somewhere beyond 1.5 miles (despite what the sign says about 1.25 miles); someday we’ll continue on down the River to the Box (we’ve hiked to the Jemez Box a couple of times from the other direction).

As mentioned above, the cañon is lush with many kinds of flowers. I’ve been collecting photos of flowers on all our hikes these past 5 or 6 years, and here along the Jemez River there are the usual suspects, plus a couple that I had not seen before.

Highlight

Statistics

Total Distance:  2.88 miles
Elevation: start  8,413 ft, maximum  8,437 ft,  minimum  8,327 ft
Gross gain:  110 ft.  Aggregate ascending  936 ft, descending  935 ft
Maximum slope: 49% ascending, 55% descending, 9.1% average
Duration: 2:59

GPS Track Files for Download
110 Downloads
233 Downloads
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

References and Resources

US Forest Service:
    Las Conchas Trail   
   Las Conchas Trailhead
AllTrails: East Fork Trail via Las Conchas Trailhead
SummitPost: Las Conchas, Jemez
Santa Fe New Mexican: Day Hike: Lingering along Las Conchas Trail
ASCHG: East Fork – Las Conchas Hike

VC09 Valle San Antonio Hike – 07/25/2019

We’ve been looking forward to visiting the  northern part of Valles Caldera; we visited it a few days before – Valles Caldera Driveabout – which piqued our interest. Because I was dealing with a sore foot, we chose an easy hike in the northwest corner of the Caldera, following VC-09 in Valle San Antonio.

The Drive In

The drive in to Valle San Antonio is described in my earlier post, Valles Caldera Driveabout. For this hike, we turned left (west) on VC08, parked where VC09/the pipeline intersects 08.

The Hike

VC09 Valle San Antonio Hike.Pat.2019-07-25

Then we headed west on a very easy two-track, up and over a couple of small  hills. As we proceeded, we watched cumulus clouds congeal into rain showers, with just a bit of lightning, some 3-5 miles to the west. When another cell began to form to the south, we decided to turn back, avoiding getting caught in a rain shower (and away from the lightning). We did take the opportunity as we turned back to climb a small hill which afforded a great view of the valley.

Statistics

Total Distance:  2.7 miles
Elevation: start  8,506ft, maximum  8,518 ft,  minimum  8,402 ft
Gross gain:  116 ft.  Aggregate ascending  357 ft, descending  357 ft
“Maximum slope: 24% ascending, 25% descending, 4.8% average
Duration: 1:47

GPS Track Files for Download
93 Downloads
82 Downloads
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

References and Resources

National Park Services: Valles Caldera
Yvonne Delamater BLOG:
     San Antonio Canyon near Valles Caldera National Preserve Boundary
NM Bureau of Geology & Mineral Resources: Geologic Map of the Valle San Antonio … (PDF)
And check other posts for Valles Caldera

 

Valles Caldera DriveAbout – 07/14/2019

My brother, Garth, came to visit us for a week.  After a few days of working together on the cabin (the usual excuse for him to come to New Mexico), on Sunday with Pat we headed to the Jemez Mountains and Valles Caldera for some cooler temperatures and the scenery. Checking in at the Visitors Center of the Valles Caldera National Preserve, we learned that the culvert that was washed out this past winter had been repaired and we could drive further into the Caldera – just what we were hoping for.

The Drive from Albuquerque to Valles Caldera

For those who haven’t visited this territory, here is a screenshot of the drive from home in Albuquerque to the entrance to the Valles Caldera National Preserve. It is an 81 mile drive, via I-25 northbound to Bernalillo (19 miles), then US 550 northwest bound to San Ysidro (23 miles). From there north on NM 4, through Jemez Pueblo, Jemez Springs, and La Cueva (26 miles), then to the entrance to Valles Caldera National Preserve (13 miles). To explore it further, download the GoogleEarth .KML file from the link below. [A note: don’t exceed the 30 mph speed limit in the Jemez Pueblo; their police are serious and enforce the limit.]

Valles Caldera Driveabout.PatGarth.2019-07-14

This drive itself is worth a day trip. After Bernalillo, the scenery is interesting ‘tho distant – White Mesa ahead, the red and rugged Mesa Cuchilla a bit to the right, and the Jemez Mountains off to the north. A few miles up NM 4 you will pass through the Jemez Pueblo (keep your speed below 30 mph), then a few more miles through Walatowa where the red cliffs dominate the view; the Walatowa Visitors Center is worth a visit. Along the way NM 4 follows the Jemez River with numerous parking areas for fishing (and a Forest Service campground – Vista Linda).

Leaving Walatowa and passing the Jemez Valley High School you will enter the narrow Cañon de San Diego with  Mesa de Guadelupe and then Virgin Mesa on your left,  and Mesa de las Casas and then Cat Mesa on your right, rising vertically from the Jemez River. NM 4 winds its way up the cañon to Jemez Springs, an interesting small village with restaurants, a truly old-time bar (Los Ojos), and a new tap room (Second Alarm Brewhouse, a “new-time” bar?). Continuing on NM 4 you will be climbing to higher elevations (and cooler temperatures), passing Soda Dam, more fishing spots, Battle Ship Rock, and … then on your right the tallest cliffs so far. Shortly you will reach La Cueva, really just a crossroad with a general store, and .. Nomad Mountain Pizza, where you will find a really great pizza (check online for their days and hours of business).

From La Cueva the climb continues – the road is ascending the southwest rim of Valles Caldera (La Cueva 7,800 ft, . About 5.5 miles from La Cueva you will make the first crossing of the East Fork Jemez River (in Cajete Cañon), and a half mile further trailheads for the East Fork Trail; the trail goes west towards McCauley Warm Springs, and east to the Jemez River Box – both make great hikes. From there the road takes you along the southern section of the rim and then down into into the Caldera. As you break out into the open, you will enjoy a grand view of Valle Grande – it is awesome. (Beware: the space of Valle Grande is so open and vast that it thoroughly confounds one’s sense of distances.)

(A note: I overheard a Forest Service Ranger at the Visitors Center point out that this Valle Grande -is only a small part the the Caldera. From NM 4 the distance to the far side of the Valle is only 4.3 miles to the north, 5.5 miles to the northeast. The diameter of the Caldera is more that 12 miles.)

The DriveAbout in Valles Caldera

As noted above, on our previous visits we weren’t able to drive past a washed-out culvert. Since then, repairs had been completed so we could drive into Valle San Antonio, the northern portion of the Caldera (screenshot below). Driving beyond the Visitors Center requires a pass and .. a promise to be back at the Center 30 minutes before closing (5:30 during regular summer hours). The road, VC01 from the Center then VC02 heading north, is well maintained (for a graded gravel road in New Mexico). It is certainly suitable for ‘street vehicles’ (high-clearance not required – just take it slow on the rocky and washboard sections). Again – distances are hard to judge – the drive from the Visitors Center to the junction with  VC09 in Valle San Antonio will require 45 minutes or longer (important for planning, to as to be sure to return to the Center by 5:30).

Valles Caldera Driveabout.CalderaDriveAbout.PatGarth.2019-07-14

The drive from NM4 is downhill all the way, but the view across the Valle is stunning. From here one can often see herds of elk out in the Valle – they appear so small because they are so far away. As you approach the Visitors Center, slow down for the Prairie Dogs.

Driving west from the Visitors Center (again, drive slow, watch for the prairie dogs) you will enter the Cabin District, a collection of ranch buildings from the days when this was a working ranch. The Caldera has been the set for many movies and TV series, notable among them The Lone Ranger (2013) and Longmire (2012-2017). Garth is standing in front of the cabin that was the centerpiece for Longmire.

Proceeding north on VC02, the road gains elevation and the full extent of Valles Grande becomes apparent. The Visitors Center shrinks in the distance. Some 2 miles from the Cabin District, you will pass a road down to the Horse Corral. Then around a curve into Valle Jaramillo and across the Creek (same name); this was the washed out culvert.

Continuing on VC02 north in Valle Jaramillo between smaller mountains in the reserve, the view opens up again to the west. Jaramill Creek is bounded by lush grasses (and we have seen people fishing for trout in the creek. Some 6 miles further on you will enter into Valle San Antonio, much larger than Valle Jaramillo. Another mile or so you will come to a T in the road, with VC09 going east and west from this junction. We opted to go east, for just a short distance – time was approaching when we needed to head back to the Visitors Center before 5:30.  

GPS Track Files for Download
94 Downloads
102 Downloads
103 Downloads
114 Downloads
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

References

National Park Service:
    Valles Caldera National Preserve    
    Maps
National Parks Traveler: Exploring The Parks: Valles Caldera National Preserve
Wikipedia: Valles Caldera
NM Museum of Natural History and Science: Valles Caldera, Jemez Volcanic Field
GeoTimes: A Secret Garden: New Mexico’s Valles Caldera
Facebook: Valles Caldera National Preserve
National Parks Traveler: Exploring the Parks: Valles Caldera National Preserve
BikePacking: Valles Caldera Supervolcano Explorer, New Mexico
     (a superb photo gallery)
And check other posts for Valles Caldera

VC05 Obsidian Valley Hike – 07/23/2019

Pat and I returned to the Jemez Mountains for a 4-night stay at the Jemez Falls Campground in our R-Pod, planning to explore further in and around Valles Caldera. For our first hike, we visited Obsidian Valley in the Valles Caldera.

The Drive In

After a relaxing morning on our first full day, we stopped by the Visitors Center to get the entrance pass, then headed out into the Caldera. With the prospect of thunderstorms, we drove only 6 miles into the Caldera, then parked at the entrance to Obsidian Valley for the day’s hike. The whole of Valles Caldera is plush with grasses, many shades of green, nearly waist high in some places; it is such a contrast with other parts of New Mexico. Flowers are abundant – many colors, sizes, styles. And the ever-present New Mexico sky, the brightest of blue and this time of year, the monsoon season, brings clouds to accentuate the sky and skyline. That is the case until afternoon, when … the convective activity heats up producing thunderclouds with lightning and rain, sometimes a deluge. This makes it advisable to hike in the first half ofthe day (and still, bring a raincover of some kind).

The Hike

VC05 Obsidian Valley Hike.Pat.2019-07-23

The ‘trails’ in Valles Caldera are typically two-tracks, now off limits to any wheeled vehicle (autos, ATVs, etc.), which makes for easy hiking. The two-track, VC05, proceeds up Obisidian Valley, a gentle slope until approaching Puerto de Abrigo, a saddle between Cerros de Abrigo on the left and Cerro del Medio on the right. It’s not much of a climb, 100 feet, to crest the saddle and descend into a side-valley at the upper reach of Valle Toledo. We continued for another half mile to check out a spring that is shown on the topo maps. And a spring we found – a large area of open water and marsh, judging by the tracks in the mud a favorite place for elk and deer.

Highlights

The views throughout our visits to Valles Caldera are stunning, huge open valleys with mountains all around. Some of the mountains are lush with forest, others recovering from fires from past years. But even the burned areas have their own appeal as we see grass, oak, and other plants bringing the mountainsides back to life. And everywhere we go other colors stand out against the green grasses, the many flowering plants in white, yellow, blue, and red. This -is- such a beautiful place.

Statistics

Total Distance: 4.05 miles
Elevation: start  8,711 ft, maximum  8,947 ft,  minimum  8,711 ft
Gross gain:  236 ft, Aggregate ascending  584 ft, descending  584 ft
Maximum slope: 27% ascending, 23% descending, 4.6% average
Duration: 3:10

GPS Track Files for Download
282 Downloads
107 Downloads
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

References and Resources

Wanderlusting the Jemez: Obsidian’R’Us
Los Angles Times: In Valles Caldera’s wild heart
Valles Caldera Trust: La Ventana en los Valles (PDF)
Eas-on Down The Road: Valles Caldera National Preserve
Earthwatch: Encountering the Prehistoric People of New Mexico 2013 (PDF)
And check other posts for Valles Caldera

FR 289 St Peter’s Dome Driveabout – 06/26/2019

With only a half day before heading home from this 4-day camping trip to the Jemez Mountains, we chose to make a DriveAbout rather than a hike. We had explored FR 289 on a previous visit, and developed a curiosity about driving further.  After scrutinizing  Forest Service and Topographic maps, and having gone most of the way, our interest was to go further, to discover if we could get to St Peter’s Dome.

The Drive About

FR 289-St Peter’s Dome Driveabout.Pat.2019-06-26

We’ve developed a classification system for roads:

  • Class 1 – paved in good condition
  • Class 2 – paved but breaking up
  • Class 3 – “New Mexico Paved”, graded sand or gravel in good condition
  • Class 4 – ungraded, in good condition, typically a two-track (don’t go if not dry)
  • Class 5 – a two-track but -not- in good condition (high clearance vehicle required, don’t go if  not dry)
  • Class 6 – good for hiking!

FR 289 is clearly a Class 3 – great condition even for a New Mexico Paved road (it had even been graded since our previous visit). There was one rocky, steep section with sharp drop off that gave us pause – to take it slowly and carefully. In the past, one could take FR 289 all the way to Cochiti Highway, down by Cochiti Reservoir. These days a gate at the boundary to the Cochiti Reservation prevents through traffic; when we were there “unofficial” signs so warned us.

Seven miles from NM 4 we turned left onto FR 142; this would be a Class 5 road – high clearance vehicle advised. FR 142 ends 3.5 miles from FR 289, ending with an immediate dropoff but a spot wide enough to turn around. From here a Class 6 two-track continues beyond a closed gate to the summit of St Peter’s Dome. On Google Earth I measure it to be 1 mile to the summit, from 8,118 to 8,460 feet elevation (342 ft gain); it is there waiting for us to return.

The view approaching St Peter’s Dome from FR 289; the dome has the two ‘bumps’ on its summit, the one to the right being a rock building lookout tower. Just visible as a line in the left center of the photo is FR 142 as it climbs up to the left on the northern slope of the Dome.
At the end of FR 142: To the left, Boundary Peak. To the right, the two track beyond the gate leading to the summit. In the center, across the Pajarito Plateau towards Bandelier in Frijoles Canyon, across the Rio Grande Canyon below White Rock, and the Sangre De Cristo on the horizon beyond Boundary Peak.
At the end of FR 142: Looking west across the deep canyons that slice through the San Miguel Mountains: Sanchez, Cochiti, Bland – very rugged terrain. And on the horizon to the right, the mountains of Valles Caldera.

As the photos show, the mesas and cañons are denuded by fires, the Dome Fire in 1996 and the Las Conchas fire in 2011. Jay and I had visited the southern area of the Dome Wilderness back in 2016 (“Dome Wilderness, Sanchez Water Fall Hike – 9/25/2016“); the area was nearly devoid of plants. This year, at least in this northern portion of the Wilderness, plants are returning (especially this year with the snow and rain we’ve enjoyed).

As mentioned in our recent Alamo Spring hike, the absence of forest affords great views. The topo map depicts three trails that emanate from the parking place, the St Peter’s Dome trail going south, the Boundary Peak trail going east, and a third trail going north. Each connects with other trails in the Dome Wilderness or Bandelier National Monument. The canyons hereabouts are steep and deep, making such hikes daunting, but they must be quite scenic. Spending some time with Google Earth (including the EarthPoint Topo Map overlay), I can see some out-and-back hikes, and in one instance maybe even a loop of 5 or 6 miles going east of St peter’s Dome.

We look forward to returning, going to the summit of St. Peter’s Dome, and exploring these other trails. The track files below show our complete drive, from the Jemez Falls campground east on NM 4, then right on FR 289, St Peters Dome Road for 7 miles, then left on FR 142 (also St Peters Dome Road).

GPS Track Files for Download
142 Downloads
101 Downloads
If you haven’t explored these hiking tracks with Google Earth, I urge you to try it. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the screenshot above. For some ideas, check out  Using Google Earth Track Files.

References

(I’m including a wide range of references related to the Dome Wilderness; there is so much to explore. Other resources may be found for hikes starting from the Visitor’s Center of Bandelier National Monument.)
Forest Service:
    St. Peter’s Dome Trail (just a brief description)
    Wilderness Areas in the Santa Fe National Forest
AllTrails:
    Saint Peters Dome Trail
    Canada-Capulin Trail
Los Alamos NM: 50 Hikes in the Los Alamos Area (PDF)
Sangres.com: Dome Wilderness
SummitPost:
    Dome Wilderness (an excellent overview, including list of features)
    Saint Peters Dome WanderLust: Wanderlusting St. Peter’s Dome NM
Volunteers for the Outdoors: St. peter’s Dome Trail
Mountain Project: Capulin Canyon Rock Climbing

Cerro Grande Trail Hike – 06/25/2019

Introduction

‘Twas our third approach to Cerro Grande, the tallest mountain in Valles Caldera National Preserve. Our first visit was “exploratory” (we went half way to the top), the 2nd visit two days ago as an appendix to another hike, but today ’twas our plan to go to the top.

The Hike

Cerro Grande Hike.Pat.2019-06-25

The trail up to the saddle was much like Our first visit; the grasses are still verdant but the flowers have gone past their prime. We remained on the trail rather than making a beeline for the top of the saddle. We were (pleasantly) surprised that the trail did not attack Cerro Grande directly, not a pleasant prospect because it appeared to be a steep climb and the day was sunny – such a climb would be hot and taxing. Rather, the trail headed to the east/northeast, presenting 1) a fair amount of shade and 2) a trail not so steep, rounding the eastern side of Cerro Grande and with a few switchbacks.

Nearing the top, we left the comfort of shade headed towards the summit which is marked with a large cairn, visible from a distance, and two survey markers (neither of which gave the elevation, but from other sources we understand it to be 10,199 ft; USTopo/GPS on my Galaxy 5 reported 10,194 ft). As expected the view across Valles Grande was “expansive” (?), highlighted by cloud shadows moving across the plain. The air was hazy so the views in other directions weren’t the best, but .. when the air is clear they must be extraordinary.

We retreated from the summit to the edge of the sparsely forested area to find some shade for out mid-hike break/lunch. After enjoying cups of Ramen Soup (a first for us on a hike – these hit the spot) as well as PB&J sandwich, carrots, and a cookie, we headed down, taking time to appreciate the late flowers, green of the grasses, and .. simply being outdoors again in Mother Nature’s garden.

Statistics

Total Distance:  4.53 miles
Elevation: start  8,954 ft, maximum  10,194 ft,  minimum  8,952 ft
Gross gain:  1,242 ft.  Aggregate ascending  1,493 ft, descending  1,494 ft
Maximum slope: 34% ascending, 36% descending, 11.5% average
Duration: 6:16

GPS Track Files for Download
115 Downloads
133 Downloads
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

References

National Park Service:
    Cerro Grande Trail       
    Valles Caldera Map
Natural Atlas: Cerro Grande Trail, a very nice interactive map – pan, zoom etc.
AllTrails: Cerro Grande Trail
American Southwest: Cerro Grande Trail, Bandelier National Monument
Wikipedia:
    Cerro Grande Fire   
    Valles Caldera
VallesCalderaRim: Cerro Grande Showshoe (Official Cerro Grande Route).

Jaramillo Creek Hike – 06/24/2019

Our 2nd day of a 4 day visit to Valles Caldera. We brought our bikes to learn if we’re ready for biking on back country roads. A friend’s description of the roads in the Valle encouraged us to give it a go; he judged the roads’ surface to be fair and elevation changes would be minimal within the Valle.

The Drive In

After consulting with the Ranger at the Visitors Center and getting our entrance permit, we drove to the Horse Barn; driving further was not permitted because of the culvert washout presently undergoing repair. Leaving our bikes at the top of the hill/driveway to the Barn and parking the truck at the Barn, we started riding north on VC02. This was our first time on any uneven, rocky surface and we quickly determined that we needed some practice to become safe. Shortly we came to a steep descent that would be on a surface that was even more rocky. At that point we chose to stash our bike away from the road and make this a hike.

The Hike

Jaramillo Creek Hike.Pat.2019-06-24

We walked down the hill, saw the work being done to repair the road (we remained clear of the construction area per instructions from the Ranger) and proceed up Jaramillo Creek. We followed an ad hoc trail, an old two-track that runs parallel to Jaramillo Creek (the only recent activity evident on the two-track were bicycles). Lush grasses covered the ground all around and the forest of douglas fir, spruce, and ponderosa pine trees covered the sides of Cerro Piño on our right and Redondo on our left, with burned areas on the ridge tops ahead.

The remains of a cabin, built partially into the slope of Redondo, looking down upon Jaramillo Creek.

As we proceeded north along Jaramillo Creek the views were spectacular – to the northwest across Valle Jaramillo ahead of us and behind us the huge Valle Grande. The space of this place is hard to grasp – one can see unobstructed by -any- disturbance one mile (Valle Jaramillo) or 5 miles (Valle Grande). And through the pristine clear air, distant objects seem to be much closer (until one measures the distance on a map or starts walking towards some destination and learns  ..  it is much farther than perceived).

Driving from Valles Caldera back to the Campground, we stopped to take in the view from a stream that feeds the East Fork Jemez River.

Planning about a 4 mile hike, when we reached two miles we found some shade to have our mid-hike break (I might better describe it as lunch, since Pat brings more for us than the granola bars Jay & I bring). After enjoying the PB&J sandwich and sliced carrots & apples, it seemed only proper to lay back and rest a bit (.. for me, a half hour nap). Looking further north, we could see more beautiful scenery – the open (huge) meadow of Valle Jaramillo, and … what might lay beyond?  But we turned back towards the bikes, road them down to the Barn, and headed back to the campground having enjoyed another wonderful day in this amazingly beautiful place. 

Statistics

Total Distance:  3.60 miles
Elevation: start  8,655 ft, maximum  8,714 ft,  minimum  8,612 ft
Gross gain:  102 ft.  Aggregate ascending  556 ft, descending  516 ft
Maximum slope: 31% ascending, 29% descending, 4.7% average
Duration: 3:23

GPS Track Files for Download
160 Downloads
91 Downloads
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

References

National Park Service:
    Valles Caldera National Preserve          
    Maps
AllTrails: Interactive Map of Valles Caldera
    (zoom in to see trails, our hike is not shown)
Wikipedia: Valles Caldera
NM Museum of Natural History and Science: Valles Caldera, Jemez Volcanic Field
GeoTimes: A Secret Garden: New Mexico’s Valles Caldera
Facebook: Valles Caldera National Preserve
National Parks Traveler: Exploring the Parks: Valles Caldera National Preserve
BikePacking: Valles Caldera Supervolcano Explorer, New Mexico
    (a superb photo gallery)

Upper Frijoles Canyon Overlook Trail Hike – 06/23/2019

This hike is the first during 4 days of camping at Jemez Falls Campground. Its about a 2.5 hour drive from Albuquerque, towing our R-Pod up US 550, then NM 4 past La Cueva to this very nice National Forest Service campground. After getting the camper set up, we headed further east on NM4, past Valles Caldera to the trailhead for the Upper Frijoles Cañon Overlook trail (also the trailhead for the Sawyer Mesa Trail, and across NM4 from the Cerro Grande Trail).

The Hike

Upper Frijoles Canyon Overlook Hike.Pat.2019-06-23

This trail is a very nice one – this year green with grasses, aspen and oak (retaking the territory after the fire some years back), and flush with flowers.  There are many standing and down tree trunks from the fire; sad ‘tho the benefit is great views to the horizons and into the cañons. The trail itself is clear of rocks for nearly the whole distance, and very little elevation gain (as you can see from the reddish elevation profile in the screenshot above).

As the map shows, there are two ‘loops’: one offers one path outgoing, another when returning; the other a ‘lollipop’ at the far end of the trail which provides 1) a view into the cañon to the east and 2) a view into the cañon to the west. The out-and-back distance is about 2.1 miles – we had energy remaining to crossed NM4 and hiked up the Cerro Grande trail for half a mile, just to extend our hiking for that day (see our hike on the Cerro Grande Trail two days later).

Highlights

This territory is spectacular and becomes more so as we gain familiarity with it.  From the screenshot above, one can get an impression of how rugged it is, the many deep cañons with their precipitous walls, the result of water eroding the volcanic material over centuries on its way to the Rio Grande River. But to get an even better view, check it out on Google Earth using the Track Files that you can download from links below. Or head out there yourself.

Statistics

Total Distance:  3.63 miles
Elevation: start  8,958 ft, maximum  9,065 ft,  minimum  8,809 ft
Gross gain:  256 ft.  Aggregate  ascending  446 ft, descending  452 ft
Maximum slope: 26% ascending, 18% descending, 4.0% average
Duration: 2:15

GPS Track Files for Download
102 Downloads
96 Downloads
I urge you to explore our hiking tracks with Google Earth. With the virtual 3-dimensional presentation, achieved by panning and tilting the view, you can get a much better idea of the hikes and terrain than you can get from the 2-dimensional screenshot above. For assistance: Using Google Earth Track Files.

References

AllTrails: Upper Frijoles Canyon Overlook Trail
YouTube: Sky Island – New Mexico’s Jemez Mountains